Would You Like to Buy a Camel?

Yes, that's what I said: Would you like to by a camel?

Although much of the "old life" of the UAE seems to have been swallowed up in the past 50 years of modernization, there are still some things that never change (much). A short drive (relatively speaking, since it took me nearly 24 hours to get there by plane) outside Abu Dhabi, there is a camel market. Yup, they sell and trade camels. I guess it makes sense, but still - who'd a thunk it.

Anyhow, it's a big open field surrounded on all sides with sellers of all sorts, sizes, ages, and styles of camels. I'm not quite sure who buys them - or why (except for those guys who offer rides to people on safari), but hey - camels: they're tradition. The market is right near the border with Oman, so I guess it's actually an international camel market (not to mention the fact that - like everything else in the UAE - the people doing the selling weren't actually from the UAE). I met a camel sellers - presumably working for the camel owners - from Pakistan, Iran, and Egypt.

Ah the memories. If only I could have fit one in my carry-on bag, I'd have brought one back. I mean really - who doesn't want a camel?

Desert Safari - Rollercoaster

I went on a safari back in January in Africa. Amazing indeed... And when Rachel suggested the same - a "Desert Safari" - as an activity not to miss in Dubai... once again: I couldn't say no. Honestly though, when they (the sales people) started describing it with words like "dune bashing" and "roller-coaster" I really didn't "get" it.

The afternoon/evening started with a drive through - and over - the desert. They intentionally found the rougher terrain and steeper hills... to better prove (test?) the theory that Chevy Tahoes will not roll over (regardless of what conventional wisdom or expectations of gravity might otherwise dictate).

We stopped for some amazing views of the desert and ended with camel rides, a belly dancer (always a good thing) and dinner (beduin style). A very cool day-trip indeed, and highly recommended, even if the only animals I saw were the camels (which makes me wonder how they get away with calling it a "safari").

Oh well - amazing nonetheless. Plus, I got 2 tattoos for free as part of the package deal (alas, they'll wash of in a week). Dang (or not).

Hot and Cold in Dubai

Dubai may lack in "culture" these days - as the whole "we're still trying to figure out what to do with this much money" thing works itself out. But, in the mean time - there's ample "crazy" things to do. The Atlantis Hotel (just completed out on Jumeirah Island) has an amazing (and free - thank you) indoor aquarium.

And although it's hot in Dubai (80f in December, and 110f in August) and very humid all year round (didn't expect that did you).... don't let any of that stop the winter fun. They built an indoor ski slope and we just couldn't say "no."

So, although I didn't get in any skiing this year in the US (despite my recent trip to snowy UT and my recent non-trip to snowy Idaho)) - I did have a wonderful afternoon hitting the slopes in Dubai. All real snow, too! Fresh snow everyday... It's 31 degrees during the day and 5 degrees at night.

Look closely at both images and you'll see how..
1) crazy big the indoor aquarium is
2) what an amazing assortment of fish they have
3) the types of lifts (yes, plural) the slopes have
4) the style of AC units they've installed
- not something you see everyday on the "mountain"

Tall, Mall or Palm...

Tall buildings, and lots of them. That's what Dubai has. Jen and I took a bus tour around the city (it took all day and we still didn't see everything) and the end result was "no matter where you look there is a tall building being built." But if you look out (instead of up) you'll likely see a mall. This is the only city bus tour I have taken (and I've taken a few around the world - I like them) that stopped at 5 different malls (as attractions in the city). We only got off the bus for one of the malls (thanks).

So, tall buildings and malls - eh? That... and man made islands in the shape of palm trees (the national symbol). Seriously, this may rank as "number one sign you have too much money" (building a plethora of different custom-shaped island leisure complexes). I'm just sayin'.

But hey - for a guy traveling the world in search of leisure - good for them (and good for me). It was really amazing to see
1) what the wealth has afforded them the opportunity to do,
2) how they hope to thereafter maintain that wealth based on today's imagination

The city is really hard to explain in words. It's kinda like "Vegas without the gambling and with a little more class." And it's kinda like someone decided to build another Disneyland (except much larger) and let people in before it was finished.

Since things are changing here so fast, and since they have so much planned (or in progress), I'm hoping to return in 10 years to see what's left of today and what tomorrow brings.

A Brief History of Oil, Wealth and People

The U.A.E., once known as the "Pirate Coast," is filthy, stinkin' rich. Somehow, they managed to avoid having their homeland's resources raped by imperialist invaders (like so many other countries throughout history). Instead, they made a killing (and continue to do so) on the resource the Brits found underneath their land back in 1957. I guess those desert Bedouin are a pretty shrewd group. Being the smart guy he was, their President initiated plans to reinvest all those early earnings into the country's infrastructure and now they've branched out into any number of unrelated businesses to continue their growing dominance in world trade and commerce so they'll continue to be economically solvent - long after the oil is gone.

You may have heard of Dubai - and its incredible building boom (it's said - by someone, somewhere - that 70% of the world's cranes are in Dubai; which having been there: I wouldn't doubt). Looking at images of Dubai from before the oil, it's almost impossible to imagine how 45 years is enough time for the transformation. Here's a fascinating web sight (with lots of photos) about the building and the deeper ramifications of said boom.

Anyhow, I spent more time during my trip in the United Arab Emirates than anywhere else during my trip. It was the hub of my travels as I came and went throughout the region. Being in a country where (yes - really) less than 25% of the people are actually local citizens (the rest being expat workers from other countries - like the Philippines, Iran, Egypt, and wherever else...) I'm not even sure how many Emiratis I actually met or even talked to. The stores, hotels, restaurants... they all seem to be run (on the front end) by foreigners who moved to find a better income to send money home or make a new life... but they aren't citizens.

The immigration officals at the airports were Emirati - so I guess I did meet a "few."

Alone, New Friends, One Friend, A Cousin, The Whole Fam (or not), Good Friends

[Note: this is a very long entry with lots of name dropping but not much travel info. You might want to skip it - depending on what you're looking for in a travel blog. Whatever suits you - just know that I know it's a hicup in the "flow" of the blog. Deal with it.]

It should be pretty obvious at this point, but I didn't have just one travel companion for this adventure. And frankly, that's probably a good thing. I do enjoy travelling alone (some people don't; I do). But I also enjoy travelling with people, but usually spending too much time with the same people can be dangerous.

So on this trip - I mixed it up quite a bit. And since people have repeatedly asked "Who did you go with?" (and before I left, "Who are you going with?") I figured I'd give it a go at detailing the varried companionships.

Yemen and Oman:
I went to both of these countries alone. At the time, I was quite happy (I'm a hermit) to be rid of all the craziness that comes from frequent and responsible relationships with people (my list of "to do's" in LA for work, friends, roommates, etc... was no longer fun or fulfilling, but rather just tiresome and frustrating). It was nice (for a while) to have no one to report to or do things for. It was a very quiet week and a half (3 days on planes, 3 days in Yemen, 3 days in Oman). But, I got to listen to my iPod (post on thit later) and see a lot of great places at my own pace in my own way).

Nepal:
As I've already indicated - Rachel, Hassan, and Ted joined me (or rather, I joined them) for the 4 day (+ 2 travel days) trip to the Kathmandu Valley. It was fun adding two strangers to the itinerary and great travelling with another Broadbent (since we "got" each other's travel styles, and such - or so it seemed to me).

Dubai and Abu Dhabi:
In January 2007, I joined Jen Birtcher and some of her wonderful friends on a trip to Kenya to build a school in a small remote village. I tried to get several of them to join me on this adventure (admittedly this was not as service oriented a venture, but they were good people - worth travelling with again). Unfortunatly (and fortunately) Jen Birtcher was the only one able to match my travel schedule. So, Jen and I spent 5 days "seeing" and living in the U.A.E (while Rachel graciously hosted us but went to work each day - leaving us to fend for ourselves: we're big kids and this suited us fine). Joshua and Melinda considered joining me, but my schedule didn't match theirs and so they actually beat me to U.A.E. by a month. Even so, they still deserve some print space in the blog!

Lebanon:
Rachel and I took a late night flight to Lebanon and had a couple days there (no Hassan or Ted this time). She had been there before (and not seen everything she wante dto see); therefore, she had list of "hot spots" worth hitting and frankly - that worked just fine for me. I know almost nothing about Lebanon, so having and "experienced guide" to take me to the Cedars AND "The Music Hall" suited me well. She had to get back to Abu Dhabi for work (people and their jobs: shaaa!), so I stayed a bit longer and saw some thing she saw on her first trip.

Abu Dhabi x 2:
After Jen went back to Kenya - where she now lives - I had a day to myself in Dubai. And when I returned after Lebanon - I had a day outside Abu Dhabi (visiting the camel traders, etc...). It was nice to have these 2 days to mix things up and relax before heading into yet more legs of the adventure.

Los Angeles:
I passed through LA en route to UT/ID. I think I was there for 20 hours. It seemed like most people had already taken off for the holidays (understandably so), but thankfully Brandon was around to pick me up at the airport and Amber and I got to see some Christmas lights before I packed up again and flew off for family Christmas fun. 20 hours is not long enough to switch modes from "summer heat and desert travels" to "cold snow and frostbite destination." So, my methodical plans to avoid the jet lag due to the 12 hour time shift were derailed by staying up all night prepping jpeg files for Rachel and the fam, doing laundry, and packing for yet more travel fun.

[Note: I didn't expect this to be a long and detailed a list of people and places, but I guess that's what I get for not realizing (before or after) how crazy long and intricate this whole thing was).]

UT/ID:
This year, we (the fam) decided to do Christmas in UT and ID (yes, both). The plan - fly to UT, do Christmas dinner with Catherine, Grant, Mom and Dad... then drive up to ID to bask in the leisure of the Lava Hot Springs with the whole Kearl clan (thus bringing Rachel back into the agenda yet again - ha ha). That was the plan, but snow closed the roads and eliminated the whole Lava part of the world tour.

So, as much as I wanted Gary, Mima, Rachel, Anna, Susan, David, Matthew, and Katie to have a place in the travel blog - this (this sentence) will suffice as their moment of fame and glory. The 5 of us stayed in UT and made SLC our vacation haven while the 6 of them dug their way out of the 17 feet of snow surrounding their house.

And the 5 other "Broadbents" (aka Snarrs) - Sara, Jeff, Hannah, Megan, and Ali - they too get "honorable mention" in the blog because - after all - it is Christmas and they're family too (even if travelling with three small kids from NY to ID just didn't fit the "holiday spirit" - understandably so).

California:
And finally - as I write this, this hasn't happened yet - I expect to enjoy my final week of vacation from the comfort of my own bed (or at least my own ThermaRest - since a camping trip is in the works): editing, cleaning, planning, camping, reading, watching TV, playing with friends, and who knows what else.

Maybe I'll do some of this alone (like Yemen and Oman).
Possibly with new friends (like Nepal).
Per chance with old friends (like U.A.E)
Or simply those I consider family (like UT or Lebanon) - or at least those I consider family (my 2nd family)...
And if I'm lucky - maybe I'll do some of it with those vying to be my future family.

Did I really say that? Really? Seriously? Oh come on - you know you're laghing; it's funny. And you never know. Really, you just never know. Trust me - I know about not knowing. And about not knowing often.

Travel, Work, Sleep

Rachel and I went to Nepal with two of her co-workers. Ted and Hassan are working with her at Booz Allen Hamilton - doing consulting work for the governement (not the U.S. government... the Abu Dhabi government). Crazy world that the UAE brings in a team of Americans to revamp their workflow processes! Nevertheless, they do - and I'm glad they do, since it affords me the opportunity for a trip like this.

Anyhow, the four of us met up in Kathmandu and saw the sights. Odd thing about it - the three of them kept pulling out their laptops at night to work. Really. I'd go to bed after a long day of walking, buying, picture taking, and other exhausting travel "stuff" and they would dive in on Powerpoint and whatever else they "do." The hotels all had free wireless, so they were in (relatively speaking) heaven. How crazy is that? Go all the way to Nepal, to do a spreadsheet and/or revise a presentation on HR management expectations...

But again, no complaints here - but I was amazed at how little sleep Rachel got (yet survived on). She kept reminding me, "We're in Nepal... even though I have to work, I'm not going to miss out on this. I may never be back." And so we packed in 4 full days (and she added a few full nights as well). I suspect she's working through Christmas as well (in Idaho, nonetheless), but hopefully she'll get some sleep: since she barely got any while I was there.

Sure Why Not - Everest

How did I end up going to Nepal and Lebanon?
The same way I ended up on plane flying over Everest!

Rachel suggested it and I said, "sure why not." On our last day in Nepal, prior to our 9 am departures,

planned departures that is - ask Rachel about how her 9 am flight became a 4:45 pm flight, and how it brought me the joys of clean laundry

we caught an early morning flight over the mountains of northeast Nepal.

The views were stunning and I can now say (according to the signed cirtificate I received from the flight crew) that "I didn't climb Everest, but I touched it with my heart."

The whole process involved a crazy-mad-rush against time, security, and domestic/international terminals separated by a 5 minute run (or a 1 minute taxi-ride - worth every penny).

Funerals

Public cremation by this river may have been more appropriate in years gone by - when there was plenty of water flowing by to "accept" the remains of their relatives. But nowadays, the trickle of water running through Pashupatinath, leaves something to be desired in the realm of compete and sanitary disposal of... well... you know.

Pashupatinath is Nepal's most sacred Hindu sight and apparently the "best" place to be creamated, should you have the means. Serendipitously (depending on your point of view), we arrived at this temple as several families prepared to say their "last good-byes" - and without gwaking, we had a glimpse into their customs and traditions.

Facinating - but we both agreed: we won't be burning our relatives (not directly anyhow).

What Is This Stuff?

So what to do in and around Kathmandu? Walking tours. There are temples (Buddist, Hindu, and probably others) on nearly every corner. Some are little more than a statue in an alcove, and others are little less than massive undertakings that words and pictures really can't do justice: Stupa, Stupa, Stupa.

Either way - there's tons to see. Frankly, I don't know what any of it "means" but it's beautiful and stunning in its variety and grandeur. It's really cool, too, to see the central point that many of these sights still play in the everyday life of the people here. They're not just "historical sights." Most of the sights are still in use.

Where Am I?

Ignoring the international visitors (mostly from Europe), I'm left wondering if I'm in China or India... Nepal, straddling the border between the two, is a mix of both cultures. Tibet to the North and India to the south, there's buddist and hindu temples at every corner. Being so far from anywhere, the past is everywhere - interwoved into the slowly modernizing present. It's an amazing collection of colors, sounds and sights.

In our limited time here, we barely got away from the Kathmandu Valley. But, with the 4 days we did have - it was just enough to "see" everything worth seeing. But, I could sooooo come to Nepal again to check out other parts of the country. We barely got 40 km from city center, and the country has so much to offer those willing to venture away from Thamel's hippie culture and tourist lifestyle.

Hippie Street

For reals... There is a street in Kathmandu called "Hippie Street." That should give you some impression of who had (in the 1970s) the strongest effect on the tourism business here. Things have changed over the years, but there's still a strong feeling of post hippie-hippiedom.

In many ways, Rachel and I don't "fit in" here... Actually, come to think of it: everyone fits in here. But, it is interesting to see who (from the West) has decided to hide-away in Kathmandu. There are the real new-age hippies, the middle-aged tourists, the "I'm hiding from real life" twenty something croud, the hikers and trekers, and us.

Hot or Not?

As I recall - in America (The United States thereof, that is) men beep their horns at beautiful women. At least, that's how it works in the movies (especially honking at women they've never met and somehow expecting that obnoxious 120 dB F# to woo her into a long term relationship (or at least a one night stand). If only life were like the movies.

Anyhow, I digress. Thing is - here in (pick your country: Nepal, Oman, AUE, Yemen, and especially - Lebanon) I keep getting honked at. I'm starting to know what it must feel like to be a beautiful woman. Oh wait - strike that. I digress.

Am I hot... or not? I'm guessing "not."

Here's the deal - I must look like a guy who needs a ride (probably something about the fair skin, the goofy backpack, the hiking shoes, and the mildly lost glaze across my face. So... every taxi driver honks as he passes hoping I'll dump an inordinate amount of money into his retirement fund for driving me .25 miles up the road to the next landmark.

It took me a while, but I've finally mastered what it seems ever woman I've ever honked at seems to have mastered: the... "ignore the honks because they don't actually know you or offer anything you want" look. In other words, I keep walking and avoid the urge to turn and examine all loud noises.

Granted, this can be mildly problematic when the military guards are blowing whistles at me to indicate I ought to stop whatever I'm doing (taking a photo for instance). At these times - paying attention to the loud noises might be in order. Foreign travel - everyday a new negotiation.

PS It would be cool if beautiful women would look at me even when I'm not honking at them. I'm just sayin'.

Sweet Suites

While travelling, I have stayed in a variety of "levels"of accomodations. Time with Rachel seems to lean heavily toward "high end" (thanks to the generous contributions of her employer towards her general comfort while "living" abroad). Time spent travelling alone (Yemen, for instace) lean toward the bottom end (thanks to the limited funds of my personal bank account and my generally low maitainence demands as a cheapskate traveler (same standards actually applied in Nepal - with Rachel - we're both frugal meisters in that respect).

Anyhow, I've certainly shot a plethora of photos (digital cameras make it far too easy to "just shoot one more") over the ensuing weeks, and I'll eventually sort through them and post SOME of them. I'm past 1,500 so you really don't want to see them all anyway.

In the mean time, I thought these two videos would be mildly entertaining and show the contrast of options in accomodations.

My Hotel in Yemen


Our Hotel in UAE

Sure, Why Not?

When I planned (and I use that word loosely) this trip, I didn't really have many specifics in mind. I only knew that I had an invite for a place to stay in UAE and a cousin ready to welcome me point me in the right directions to find entertaining and enlightening adventures.

As the plans developed, and I arranged time off - Rachel mentioned he was interested in leaving UAE during the time I was planning to be there... and how convenient... she wanted to leave to see places I too wanted to see. So, when rachel asked, "Do you want to go to Nepal?" I said - "Sure, why not?" And when she mentioned Lebanon, I echoed, "Sure, why not."

So, the trip of UAE, Yemen and Oman - expanded to include Nepal and Lebanon. I really didn't know what I was doing on the front end - except that I wanted to travel for about a month and UAE would be home base. I had considered Thailand and some other destintations - but that's the basics of how the trip developed.

I'm a "Yes" guy - and that often casues me trouble, but in this case - it was a perfect situation. Ask me if I want to travel somewhere, and chance are... the answer is "sure, why not."

Sweet Suite

I finally found Rachel. Or rather, she found me. She arrived the next night and we settled into a suite before heading off for a early morning flight to Nepal. However, I still had a bag filled with 9 days of dirty laundry and nothing suitable for the flight (of course, knowing now what I do about the smell in the coach section of a flight to Nepal - it seems I did have clothes suitable for the flight, but at the time - this didn't seem to be the case).

Anyhow, I was elated to find that our suite had a washer dryer included: a true luxury by current standards, it seems. Granted, it may have been the smallest washer/dryer ever, but it was enough to wash some vital items from my bag - leaving the rest to be dealt with down the road.

If you can't solve it today - put it off till tomorrow!

Anyhow, we were only in that suite for 6 hours, but it was enough time to sleep for a few moments and - get the laundry done.

People Ride Buses

Today, a man in LA rode a bus.
Today, a woman in Russia rode a bus.
Today, a kid in Oman rode a bus.
Today, I rode a bus in UAE.

As I looked around at my fellow passengers I remember thinking, "What's so different about these people - so different that so many in the US think they're all 'twisted, different, or potentially dangerous or evil' (you know - being middle eastern Muslims)?"

Oh sure, there were a few uni-brows, dark mustaches... and a few of the wen were wearing dresses (kanduras) but what does that have to do with anything? Nothing.

Dresses and bad-hair asside - these were average, everyday people going about average everday lives... Or so it seemed to me. As 9/11 made clear, but as it seems still continues, there are a lot of misconceptions about Islam and people from the middle east. Travelling in Yemen, Oman, and UAE - I've met mostly genuine people with general good will in mind (except that guy who ripped me off in Yemen and the taxi drivers who simply wont tell me where to catch a bus).

Anyhow, my point: travel the world, meet a few people - then disregard all those language, culture, religion, family, economic, race, gender classifications we've created to rate, segregate, stereotype the world. They're usually overly superficial, and likely misleading and biased. Granted, I'm biased too - but I'm feeling soap-boxy, so there you go.

Shoe Golf and our President

In 1988 Lee Russell and I played shoe golf during lunch (more than once). We would wander outside and set up a course... then attempt to kick our shoes from "hole" to "hole" by launching them in parabolic arcs into the air.

I'm left wondering if Lee has since defected to Iraq and become and international journalist... specializing in shoe baseball?

I've been seeing and reading reports of that recent journalists' Press-Room-Rage. But, I'm learning about it throught he filter of the midle east perspective. Although I have yet to meet anyone overtly opposed to Americans or The United States... there are plenty happily congratulating me on our upcoming change in leadership. They're all quite happy to see Bush go, and apparently giddy with anticipation of what Omaba will bring to the world scene!

Also, I've been hearing (from Jen) how exstatic the Kenyans are our our new US president from Kenya. Seriously? Wow - I think some people need a little ejukatin! Even so, I'm guessing there are a few Americans that could also use a does of "seriously - do you know anything about international politics or cultures?"

Another Missed "Connection"

So, I arrived in Dubai a day late to catch my flight to Yemen, right?

Well, I arrived in Abu Dhabi a day early to meet up with my cousin Rachel. So far, I'm not doing so well on proving my scheduling abilities!

Turns out she was driving to the DC airport in the US as I was landing in the Abu Dhabi Airport in the UAE (where she's been living for the last year). I thought she was arriving a day before me (but, as should be pretty obvious, she actually arrived a day after me).

Man oh man, those taxi drivers at the airport were all over me. They soooooo wanted to take me somewhere... I just didn't know where to have them take me (and frankly, I didn't want to pay them when I knew there was a bus that would do just as well at 1/10 the price). If only I knew where to go.

After an hour fighting the pay phone and various international call restrictions I finally figured out where Rachel was (not in UAE) and that (unexpectedly) I needed o fend for myself for a good night's rest (at was already 11pm).

I started calling local hotels and finally found myself a bed. Ahh - sweet sleep. A guady hotel in the downtown Abu Dhabi area - "near" the fish market, but really in the middle of nowhere. But really - by the time I go there (1:30 am) I didn't really care where it was, I was just happy to have a bed, and laughing at the absurdity of flying around the world to meet up with my cousin (planning it a month in advance) and still messing it up. Ha ha ha.

More on UEA (and Nepal, and Dubai, and more) later.

Now, it's time for some sleep and hopefully another wonderous day as the adventure continues. Computer time is something I'm finding hard to "fit in" to the schedule, but I'll do what I can. And yowsers, have I taken a "few" photos. I'll deal with them later.

Oman

Muscat Oman was a wonderful surprise for me on this trip. Going, I really hadn't given much thought as to why. I just thought "hey, I'm here - it's here... I'll go."

Turns out, Muscat satsfied the adventurer, pirate, cartographer, ameteur history buff, and nature hiker in me. In almost everyway, it was NOT what I expected. But then again, realy: I had no idea what to expect.

Omani's have forts - everywhere. I'd say that they mastered the fort building of the Arab world (historians might differ on that assessment, but that how I feel after 3 days in their fine capitol city).

I hit several museums, and regretfully admit that I also had 1 McDonalds chicken sandwich while walking the streets (I was hungry - and Oman is not cheap). I've avoided McDonalds and other fast food as much as posible, but it happens from time to time. There are some travelers that seek out such "comfort foods" but I shy away as much as possible, opting for the local fare.

Ironically, I ended up at one restaurant (the day after that MD run), a restaurant suggested in Lonely Planet (also the only restaurant within a squeare mile) and found myself surrounded by Europeans (also following the Lonely Planet walking tour). I couldn't help but laugh at the absurdity of it. Here was are, all trying to get an authentic experience (avoiding the fast food and option for local cuisine) and we all end up eating with other tourists.

Didn't change the fact that the food was fummy and the atmosphere engaging. Also, in addition to us Yanks, Gringos and Brits.... there were a fair number of locals as well. But I couldn't help but wonder if they're happy or sad that their favorite local dive is now tops on the Lonely Planet list?!

OK, OK, OK

That's 3 "OK";s

1) I'm OK. I'm alive. I've not been captured by terrorists, arrested by over-eager border guards or kidnapped by a cab-driver. Life is good and the adventure continues!

2) OK, I know I "promised" some travel-logs and I've done little to satisfy that expectation.

3) OK, seriously - did you think I'd have time to dilly-dally at a computer while trying to fit in so much in so little time?

Got Qat?

Did I say the Yemani people were industrious, clever, dedicated, and hard working? They were. Today, en masse - the entire population seems destined to a life of idleness and drug abuse. I'm only sort of exagerating.

In my preivious post, I mented terraced farming and the amazing techniques the ancient Yemeni people devised to grow their crops. One of the main crops was coffee. Fair enough, it's been around for ages and a great cash crop for many countries throughout the world.

In recent years though, coffee has been found less profitable than "Qat." What is Qat and why is it more profitable? Well - it's a mild narcotic and it seems that 70% of the population chews it. And when I say "chews it" - any MLB player's chewing habit pales comparison. They start (daily) at 1pm and chew for 5+ hours (one little leaf at a time. Chip and Dale have nothing on the average male member of Yemeni society's puffy cheeks.




























I found this photo online, but this was a common site every day, everywhere. Even the military guards at the check points had mouthfulls of chewed leaves (and 3 hour old syliva). Yuck.

Point is - 70%+ of men chew it; 70%+ of the Yemeni water supply goes to growing it;70%+ of the work day is spent chewing it; and I don't know for sure, but it seems like 70%+ of one's annual salary goes to buying it.

Without going into a deep political tirate about social issues... this experience solidified my belief that legalizing drugs is NOT the answer. Qat is completely legal in Yemen. Legalized drug use isn't the solution to the druig problems we face in the US (or elsewhere).

Sometimes it's good (even appropriate) to say, as a society, that something is inappropriate (what we do when we say something is illegal) - even if a lot of people like doing it... for the sake of society as a whole.

Yemen - Where it all started

Years ago, I visited Israel, Jordan and Egypt. At the time, I remember thinking "Ah so this is how it 'used to be' in teh old days." (or something like that). We wandered the "old city" in Jerusalem, and visited "tell" after "tell" (an archeological ruin of a once-trhiving villiage.

Now enter Yemen. They too have an old city, and a few ruins as well, but more than that - they have villiage after villiage built 1000s of years ago - still inhabited by people (many living something close to their traditional lifestyles). Sadly (or gladly, depending on your point of view) that has started to change, but only in the last 25 years.

And so, as we visited the countryisde around Sana'a (the capitol) the sights and soughts were awesome (and I don't mean that in a surfer's "awesome" way - but really - I was in awe). The Yemeni people 1000+ years ago terraces entire mountains. They found/made ways to grow crops anywhere and everywhere. Looking out over the mountains it was (really) a jaw-dropping moment (one after another).

In just the last few decades, these terraces that lasted generation after generation have bengun to deteriourate (as the people migrate en-mass to Sana'a and other large cities), but what they've left behind isn't a "tell" yet (so it's much easier to see and understand).

But more than just their fields, they figured out amazing ways to build in the desert and find water and survive in such an inhospitable environment. 1000s of years, and no options - you do what you gotta do.

Much of the landscape reminded me of Moab or the Grand Canyon. And trust me - what they did in the ensuing years was nothing like Havasupai or a camp site at Arhces. 8 story buildings made of rocks... built at the highest points... to protect against invaders. On one hand, I kept saying "Who would decide to live here?" On the other hand, I kept asking "How could anyone live here?"

These were amzingly hard working, industrious, and dedicated people.

Where to begin - lundry Perhaps?

I feel like I could write volumes at this point. Oman was fantastic, but I still haven't even written up Yemen yet, and the adventures of the last 2 days here in UAE make for laugh upon laugh.

Rachel, my dad, Anna, and a slew of other people ahve been trying to find me (and I've been trying to find them) for a day or so. It's incredible how being "disconnected" can backfire when all you really want (in the moment) is to connect! Oops. Limited internet in Oman and a desire to pack every spare moment and well... what do you know... I lost Rachel.

With any luck, we'll meet up this evening and we're heading to Nepal tomorrow. Crazy life I live!?

FYI - laundry is not easily "done" in Abu Dhabi (you know - just in case you ever try). And frankly, I've been "aiming" for today as "Laundry Day." So, although I still smell pretty today, you might not want to be near me (on the flight, nonetheless) tomorrow. Wish me (and my seat-mates) luck!

You see - there just are not laundry mats (sp). They just don't exist (at least not near where I am). Instead, there are TONS of little stores that will wash items of clothing (as long as you're willing to give them 10 hours and a crazy amount of cahs). 3 shirts, 3 pants, and all my underwear: $18.

Oh sure, I could wash it and hang it in my hotel, but I have to check out long before it would be dry, and who wants moldy clothes in Nepal? Not me.

Anyhow, this is supposed to be funny, but it probably just comes accross like yet another "rookie mistake." I don't count it as such, but dang... seriously people: someon could make a killing by opening a launrdy mat. Get rich scheme, here I come: I'm moving to Abu Dhabi and opening a laundry mat!

Rookie Mistakes

Someone ones told me I focus on the bad side of things. Not really - I just think they make for better stories. So, a few "bad" things of note from the first 3-5 days (depending on how many "days" of travel there were).

1) I booked the wrong flight
2) I left several overpriced gifts from a street vendor in my guide's car yesterday (sorry)
3) I brought hand sanitizer, but neglected to use it (I have a cold - and I'm blaming it on one of numerous handshakes)
4) I mistook a Canadian for an American (but, really - who hasn't done that?)
5) I left my Lonely Planet travel guide book in my guide's car today (alas, two different guides; two different cars)
6) I left my dental bite guard in Los Angeles (yes, I have a bit guard). Hopefully my teeth wont start looking like Yemeni teeth before I can get home and use it again!

Years ago, on a trip to Mexico, my travel companions and I started calling such errors "rookie mistakes" - you know: the kind of thing only an un-seasoned traveler would do. Oh well, what can I say - I'm not unseasoned, but apparently I'm out of practice.

The cool thing about it - it all works out in the end.

Safer than West Los Angeles

OK, first off - Yemen: visit.

Before I left, a friend told me that Yemen was one of two places in the whole world he wouldn't visit: for safety reasons. Well, having walked Sana'a multiple times and various times of day, and having spent two full days touring the countryside outside it's walls... I must say, I feel safer here than in many parts of Los Angeles, and certainly safer than many other cities int he world.

I'm not even kidding. I've been more concerned about my surroundings walking home from Kelly's house at 10:30 pm than I am in the Old City here in Sana'a at any hour. Perhaps the same can't be said for downtown Pittsford, but still - it puts things in perspective.

Oh sure, there are a few men with automatic rifles wandering the streets and the occasional bombing, but really - what are the odds? Now, I'll admit, when people ask me where I'm from - I say "California." Yes, they're all smart enough to know that's in the United States... but as yet, not one person I've met actually has any problems with the United States. They all seem to like it. A few have expressed excitement over our new president elect, but otherwise - even politically speaking - Yemen is safe and worth putting on your "to do before I die" list (if you like world travel, new foods, and adventure).

Internation "Date Line"

OK, laugh with me - the actual internation date "line" is somewhere near Alaska or Tahiti, but when you hop on a 15 hour flight, you might as well assume there's a date change (espcially if you're heading east). Well, it turns out my flight to Yemen left without me - 14 hours before I landed. Ooops. And I thought I was being all "good" keeping track of such things. Are we laughing yet!?. Doh!

Oh well. Frankly, this is the part of international travel that I love - the renegotiating plans en route. A small "cancellation fee" and booking a diffent flight with a different airline and I should have it all worked out.

Perhaps it's the travel gods trying to tell me not to go to Yemen. I'm not listening.

On another note, my email doesn't seem to work (today, at this moment, in this internet cafe) - so, well... yeah... I guess that's the email gods telling me to leave you and your mesages behind and enjoy myself.

For the moment, I think I'll listen to theses gods.

UAE or Bust

It all started with my cousin Rachel. (Actually it "all started" back when I was 13 and I started flying from one place to another. Ever since, I just can't seem to get enough of international destinations.) Anyhow, Rachel...

She currently lives just south of Dubai and she offered me a place to stay if I felt like exploring Dubai and the rest of the UAE. Well, one thing led to another and I've decided that "the rest of the UAE" wasn't a big enough trip. So, although UAE is "home base" for the next month, I'll be taking a collection of side trips to locations in the "vicinity":

Muscat, Oman
Sana'a, Yemen
Beirut, Lebanon
Katmandu, Nepal (ok, we're using a very broad definition of "vicinity")
Dubai and Abu Dhabi, UAE

And just for good luck, let's throw in Salt Lake CIty Utah, Pocatello Idaho, and the Lava Hot Springs for good measure.

I know some of you (even though you've actually clicked through to this link) have little interest in following such a crazy trip. I'm offended. Not really, it's actually completely fine either way!

I'm actually quite surprised, though, at the number of people who have asked that I do just this: keep the ivagabond travel blog up-to-date. I suspect internet will be sparse at times and easily found at others, but - for my blurking friends - I'll do what I can (with limited time and resources) to update this.

And for Erik... Yes, I'll take a few snapshots.

But for now, I just need to finish packing before my brain shuts down. 2008 has been a uniquely "taxing" (for lack of a better word) year, and I'm looking forward to (if nothing else) 15 hours on an airplane to debrief, and then several weeks of newness. As I told Jared months ago when I started thinking about this trip, "travel is something that I constantly look forward to. I guess it's my release."

Here's to release time.

A Few Thoughts on Proposition 8

Normally, I use this blog solely for travel updates. However, since I haven't been on any trips lately, there has been nothing to write about. Today, I feel like posting some thoughts which I hope will travel far and wide (even if I don't). So, for anyone wishing I'd update my blog more often - this is for you!

dave

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Family, Friends, Co-workers, Travel Buddies, Future Girlfriends (with luck), and everyone else (even a couple X-Girlfriends),

As the November election draws near, I feel impressed to share some thoughts regarding an item on the California ballot. On November 4, California voters will vote on Proposition 8 - a proposal potentially amending our state constitution to define marriage with the following words, "Only marriage between a man and a woman is valid or recognized in California."

First - excuse me if this message reaches you after far too long a silence. If nothing else, take it as evidence that I value our past association and hope for continued contact with you (most of you, anyhow). Second - excuse me if you already saw this when I posted it online. If nothing else, take this repeat presentation as evidence that I really care - but know that this is not the beginning of a spam-campaign on my part; one notably long email on this matter will suffice.

It is with some trepidation that I reach out so broadly on a matter that elicits such a strong emotional response. Feelings about this measure (for and against) are extreme because of how it personally touches so many lives - we all have people whom we love and/or respect who are gay. Some feel that Proposition 8 is designed to take something away from them. This is not true. California domestic partnership laws already provide gay partners the same legal rights as traditional married couples (FAMILY.CODE SECTION 297-297.5) and Proposition 8 does nothing to change or curtail these rights.

Eight years ago, a 61% majority of California voters passed Proposition 22, which clearly defined marriage for Californians as "between a man and a woman." Earlier this year, the California Supreme Court ruled that law unconstitutional (in a 4-3 split decision: a margin of 1 judiciary) thereby legalizing same sex marriage. Proposition 8, which uses identical wording as Proposition 22, will let California voters "overrule" the California Supreme Court by amending the California State Constitution to yet again define marriage in California as "between a man and a woman."

There are many good reason to support Proposition 8 as well as strong arguments against it. Having contemplated the merits of both sides, I support efforts to pass the proposition. Here are some of the reasons I will be voting "Yes" on Proposition 8:

Marriage Concerns More than Just the Couple
If marriage only concerned the couple getting married, then by all means: let anyone call their union a "marriage." But, marriage is about more than just the couple being wed. It is also about the lives that those two people can help create (their children) and the society in which they live. For its ability to create and nurture life, bind generations together, and provide an anchor to society - I believe marriage is a divine institution that should not be changed. It concerns far too many people beyond just the two being wed.


Children's Inherent Rights
Throughout the ages, marriage has signified the formal acknowledgement of two people's commitment to each other and the expectation that - within that setting of commitment and love - children will be born and raised. I believe that every child has an inherent right to know, have a loving relationship with, and be raised by the two parents whose biological union led to its creation. Children raised in loving two-parent homes have the highest chances for emotional, physical and psychological success. I also believe that such children are better prepared to enter healthy family relationships and become better parents themselves.

In light of this, I believe that it is every child's inherent birthright to be raised in a loving family, ideally by the parents whose union actually created it. Various factors may deny some children the benefit of being raised in such a traditional family. Adoption provides an excellent alternative to deal with these factors. But these exceptions do not change the data, nor the strength of the argument that every child has a right to expect a mother and a father. Marriage is the only institution that attempts to protect this right for future generations.

Same gender coupling fundamentally breaks with this definition of marriage because it lacks the potential for offspring. True, they may adopt children or bring them from a previous relationship (and such may indeed be the best option for specific children - when all factors are considered). But any family configuration built on anything less than a mother and a father ought not be called by the same name as the the heterosexual coupling that produces a child in the first place. Therefore, it should not be called "marriage."

In such a redefinition of marriage, children are ultimately an afterthought, not the focus of the union. Their needs are subordinated to the desires of the adults who choose a lifestyle that cannot provide for the children's full inherent rights (however diligent and loving those parents may otherwise be and regardless of why they chose that lifestyle).


A Couple's Rights
I am not saying that two people (of any gender) who want to make a legally binding commitment to each other should not be able to do so. Making and keeping lasting, worthwhile commitments is a good thing. All Californians currently have this right and Prop 8 does nothing to change it. Nor am I saying that same-gender couples should not be afforded the same legal rights as traditional couples (for over a decade, California has been forefront in ensuring that they do).

What I am saying is that these (and any other new family configurations) should not be called "marriages" because that's simply not what they are. They may contain some components of marriage (e.g. love, commitment, passion), but they do not contain all the pieces. They can not lead to children, they can not create links between generations along genealogical lines, and they can not generate the family units that have long been the basis of stable society.

Certainly, I recognize that not all heterosexual marriages will lead to these results (either by choice or circumstance), but they can. Same gender unions can not. To call these new relationships "marriages" not only creates confusion by suggesting that they are the same. It also cheapens the long extant institution of traditional marriage by placing it on an equal standing with an unequal substitute - one that is based primarily on the desires of the two people pursuing it, rather than the rights of future children and their place in society.

While the lives of tens or even hundreds of thousands of same-gender couples in California may be impacted if Prop 8 passes, the lives of millions of future Californians will be impacted if it fails. These future children deserve every chance we can give them to being raised in an environment of love by their own two biological parents. Admittedly, not all of them will get it - but if we don't protect the only institution designed to provide it, then we will undoubtedly see fewer and fewer children enjoying it. Ultimately, it will be the rising generation that will bear the full cost.

I welcome the chance to discuss this is greater depth. Please let me know.

Sincerely,
Dave Broadbent
Los Angeles, CA


To those who are undecided about Proposition 8
This message is primarily intended for you. As you study the matter, I wanted to share with you the following materials which I have found helpful:

S147999 - In re MARRIAGE CASES
The California Supreme Court ruling from May 2008 which legalized same-sex marriage. I found the dissenting opinions (page 128 and 154) quite solid.

ProtectMarriage.com
The website of the coalition sponsoring Proposition 8, which includes FAQs, Myths, and Facts.

Protecting Marriage to Protect Children
LA Times Opinion piece

Prop. 8 protects rights of those who support traditional marriage
San Francisco Chronicle Open Forum Submission

WhatIsProp8.com
An independent web site highlighting some of the benefits and ways of supporting Prop 8.

Marriage Facts
An attempt to summarize the legal arguments on both sides of the same sex marriage debate, as they have been presented in various courts of law.

Upholding the Constitution
An obviously strong opinion-piece that touches on some of the potential, yet not-so-obvious, constitutional issues at stake.

To those who support Prop 8
Get involved. I am encouraged to see so many already speaking out on this matter. If you haven't already done so, visit ProtectMarriage.com to learn how you can participate or let me know and I'll point you in the right direction. Also consider making a financial contribution(or an additional contribution- if possible) and mostly: reach out to everyone you can through whatever means suit you. If you do an e-mail like this, be sure to copy me. And above all else - when advocating traditional marriage, be respectful of other people's feelings and opinions. Reject any statement (from either side) that has even a trace of bigotry or insensitivity. Respect the deeply felt convictions of those who oppose Proposition 8 (many whose lives have been shaped by desires that many of us don't have or feel).

To those who oppose Prop 8
I expect that some of you hold an opposing view. I respect that and I hope you'll do likewise. I hear too much of people lowering themselves to slandering, name calling, threats, and a myriad of other demeaning acts. That is below us. Or at least I hope it is below you: those I choose to call my friends.

If this message offends or upsets you, I apologize. Please keep in mind that there are people who support Prop 8 who are thoughtful, sensitive, reasonable, and who feel compassion for those whose lives will be impacted by this. I hope you will respect those on the "yes" side by seeing the honest intent behind our motives (and not let the distasteful actions or arguments of a few color your perception of everyone on the "yes" side of the issue). Don't perceive bigotry or impute ill-will where none is intended.

To those living outside of California
As California is the most populous state in the country (more than one in ten Americans lives here), and as California does not have a residency requirement for receiving a marriage license, what happens here is sure to have nation-wide implications. Consider what support you might give to the campaign from wherever you are, including financial contributions and/or - better yet - simply reaching out and sharing your personal views on the matter with people you know who live in California.

Compilation Video

Wow, instead of writing everything up, I should have just made a video of all my photos. Luckily, Joshua Bruce, one of my fellow servants did so with his many vids and photos. This pretty much shows it all.



In addition to his video, all my videos and photos are also viewable here. The whole collection is there, but I've also made a few "highlights" albums to speed of the browsing process. Look at whatever interests you!


Enjoy!

The Front Fell Off

I think I mentioned that I traveled with 8 other people (7 of whom I'd never met). One of the cool things about meeting new people is being introduced to new things, and well... I was introduced to my new favorite Podcast The Best of YouTube. Ok, truth is - I haven't watched it yet (aside from the one video Joshua and Melinda showed me on the bus-ride from Nairobi to Machakos). Thereafter, it became the quotable for the whole week.

This is "An Australian spoof interview from the early 90's.. an oil spill occurred off the coast of Western Australia due to the front of the boat falling off. Senator Bob Collins is played by John Clarke and the interviewer is Bryan Dawe."*

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Another site I was led to by my travelling companion Joanne is like unto my favorite spam confirmation site: snopes.com. She prefers truthorficiton.com. I guess it matters which you use - just use one of them, and stop forwarding me emails about Bill Gates wanted to give me $100 for my email address - or little Betsy and her fight with cancer (since she's no longer little or fighting cancer).

Funny how 9,682 miles from home (and technology) things like that come up. I guess we're not all that different after-all.

Never Forget? Will they remember me?

On our way out of Nairobi, we stopped at the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust. Here, they take elephants left in the wild (orphaned for one reason or another) and raise them - hoping to return them once they are old enough to fend for themselves.


Ranging in age from a couple months to a couple years - the elephants are available daily for one hour to watch, pet, and generally gawk at. The center is always willing to take donations (surprised?) and you can even "adopt" an elephant for a mere $25. It might be worth it - if you're heading to Nairobi (and you like elephants). If you're the "parent" you can arrange a one-on-one visit and you'll be able to feed your elephant during your visit. Plus, hey - who wouldn't want to be a foster parent to an orphaned elephant?

So yeah, I guess this shouldn't be a surprise, but there was plenty of wildlife on this trip (dur - it's Africa). As for the elephants, as you can see in the video, no one was really quite sure how to predict them. You gotta be on your toes with them, unless you want them on your toes. Ouch.

They guys in green are the trainers (there's probably a better wor d than "trainer" - maybe "keeper?" Since they're not training them per-se), and the elephants get really "attached" to them. Raising elephants is no easy task. They have 2 or 3 trainers per elephant and no elephant is ever alone. They even sleep with their trainers. True foster parenting!

They eat (among other things) insects from the dirt. Who'd-a-thunk it? What about peanuts? And the milk? 3-gallons, twice a day... I think. My memory isn't on par with an elephant, and it's been 2 weeks, so maybe my details are a bit fuzzy.

Speaking of elephant memory. It's true, they don't forget. Some have recognized their trainers years later. And they're very emotional animals. There are several reasons each elephant has multiple trainers:
1) Not only does the trainer need time off - you know, to do laundry, and send emails; but
2) If the elephant only had one trainer and it was sick or otherwise unable to work - the elephant would react emotionally to the loss. Having multiple trainers helps the elephants not be too attached to any one person too much, and they can rotate as necessary. Cool, eh?



The rest of the elephant videos are here.

Gorilla Safety

Before trekking into the wilderness to follow a family of gorillas, it's probably a good idea to learn how to avoid irritating them. This is how:



Notice the gun in the background. Yeah, just in case... Oh, and to fend off poachers. Plus, if you're paying as much as we did for the experience, there ought to be guns involved!

The gorillas were amazing, huge, peaceful, cute, strong, playful, etc... You know - your average primate family! Assuming you want to see a video - I picked this one of two children/babies playing in the trees:



There is another post about this experience here. And the rest of the gorilla videos are online with all the other stuff on my server.

Slippery When Wet

Motorcycles are cool. Period.



So, when Jen noticed the best taxi's in Kigali were motorcycles, we couldn't resist. Granted, there's probably someone somewhere saying, "those roads look slippery" and I'm happy to say "we never found out for certain." We rode said moto-taxis twice while in Kigali and loved it both times.

I suppose it doesn't really work with luggage, but there were plenty of times when we'd stash our things at the hostel/hotel. That gave us freedom to walk, run, ride, skip... whatever.

VOD: Why read a book?

Is is me, or is the person in front of me reading a book? OK, I suppose that's allowed (but only because the entertainment system's VOD (Video on Demand) hasn't been turned on yet.

This may not be a big deal to all my international traveling friends, but things have changed in the world of in-flight-entertainment since I last flew abroad (or maybe it's just because these were MUCH longer flights. Anyhow, point is - instead of just giving you 10 movies to pick from, and insisting that you watch your selection at the same time as everyone else on the plane... Our flights had mini-individual-TiVo-esue units for every passenger. I think there were 200 program choices and we were able to pause, rewind, restart at will. Pause live TV is now right there in the seat-back in front of you!

Now, lest you think my brain turned to mush watching 18 hours of TV and movies - I will admit that I read some on the plane as well (so I suppose I'll let my fellow passenger off for doing likewise). Of course, my book was about Rwanda, which when added to in-flight versions of The Last King of Scotland and Blood Diamond. Actually - maybe my brain did turn to mush: too much media-style tellings of strife on the African continent.

To balance it all out - I watched Sliding Doors on the way home. See - I have a sensitive side!

Ooops, did I just admit that?

Rwanda and that Hotel

Moments before leaving LA, I considered all the time I'd have on the various flights and decided to bring some "light"reading for the trip. One book I bought was An Ordinary Man. I was heading to Rwanda after-all... and a book about their past seemed like good reading (this book - not actually "light" - is the first-hand account of the Hôtel des Mille Collines... or Hotel Rwanda).

Granted, I was also heading to Kenya, which was having it's own current-day mini-version of Rwanda's troubles from 1994. Needless to say, the book got me mildly anxious - wondering if Kenya was heading down the same genocidal path of its neighbor (what do I know?).

In Rwanda, they've come a long way since 1994. We visited the Hotel Rwanda and a genocide museum and talked with people first-hand about the experiences they went through. The end result of their tragedy is a keen awareness of how destructive racial & class distinctions can be (were) - when bred, believed and left to fester. My impression (during my short visit) is that they learned (albeit the hard way) something a large number of people still have yet to learn... Hopefully the learning process won't be so hard for everyone else.


Enough on that... Rwanda was incredible (and not just for the politics lesson and the gorillas). The landscapes are lush and green, and nothing like I was expecting. Overall, I'd say Kenya and Rwanda were both greener than expected (and I didn't even bring a rain coat on the trip - big mistake).

Gorillas in the Mist

Gorillas in the Mist (1988) tells the story of Dian Fossey and her time spent studying and living among the Gorillas of Rwanda. I saw it 10 or 15 years ago... But I lived it (kind of) 10 or 15 days ago. After a short layover in Nairobi, our first stop in Africa was Ruhengeri, Rwanda - to hike with the Gorillas (yes mom - this is safe).

The Rwandans strictly limit how many visitors get this opportunity (by charging notable fees, leading only small-group visits, and limiting tourist-interactions to exactly one-hour-per-day). They even place 24-hour armed-guards on the mountain to fend off potential poachers. They're serious about safety (of the gorillas and - thankfully - the visitors).

Travel Companion (and owner of said Nikon D-40) put together a great slideshow of her best images/videos from the day.



I posted a second post about this experience - here.
And all the photos and videos from the trip are - here here.

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Here's how it works...

We (our small group: 7 Americans, 2 guides, 2 guards with rifles, and a guy with a machete - who also carried Sara's back-pac) hiked up into the foggy hills expecting, but not guaranteed, to find a family of gorillas. We were not disappointed. After about an hour-ish of hiking we found the Silverback and his many wives and children (ok, so maybe they never actually got "married" but really - what priest is going to "marry" a gorilla, let alone to five different women). Anyhow, I digress.

Point is, there were 11 gorillas (1 male, 5 adult females and 5 children) slowly wandering through the hills eating bamboo and playing in the trees. What a life!

So there we were - for exactly 3,600 seconds snapping untold pictures while quietly stalking these amazing beasts. Anyhow, fun times - and certainly worth the side-trip.

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PS Thanks to Adam Sidwell for the head's up on how to do this (who to contact, where to go, how much to pay), and the video that convinced us we had to do it:

We're from Nairobi and we're on the ball...

The cannibals may eat us, but they'll never beat us
'Cuz we're from Nairobi and we're on the ball

Singing un-ga-wah, un-ga-wah, un-ga-wah, un-ga-wah

Those aren't the exact words I learned as a a child, but they're close. Needless to say, no one's eating anyone; and they probably don't teach that song at camp anymore (just like they no longer sit kids down indian style). Dut I digress...

Anyhow, the people of Nairobi are certainly on the ball. This is a thriving city with plenty going on (and I'm told things are "slow" right now - it must be completely crazy when things are fully hopping). Today, after relocating to cheaper accomodations (tonght I'll be paying almost 1/3 what I paid last night), I wandered the city taking in the sights and sounds, and a few museums. I also got to stand on the heli-pad at the top of the Second-Tallest-Building-in-Nairobi (darn it all if the tallest-building didn't HAVE a heli-pad for me to stand on). Great view (I'll post it when I get home - yes, more photos!).

I stumbled onto a street filled with vendors selling "this and that." It SO reminded me of Korea. And it wasn't a touristy thing (obviously - there are no other tourists in Kenya right now). This was true Nairobi selling itself to each other. I loved it - and I bought some stuff.

My guide at the top of the Conference Center (Irene) gave me a good overview of the city, the buildings, the history, the views, etc... She even pointed me to a find place to eat dinner (but I decided to hold off and eat there later in the weak). All things considered, a great day. Heck, I even saw two Hindu Temples, several shot-guns, a gazillion matatus (mini-bus-taxis), and I had a guy invite me to sit down to a nice cup of coffee and discuss America (specifically whether or not there is discrimination there) - I refused his offer.

Anyhow, yeah. Niarobi. Fun place. And honestly, it seems like a safe enough place (on par with several other internation cities I've visited). Sure, I'm watching my back and I'm guard. But I guess I kinda like the adventure of randomly exploring and experiencing, while at the same time protecting and defending.

Solitary Vagabond...

PS Uhuru Park (apparently now world famous) even looks calm and peacefull (from the heli pad). I'll let you know what it really looks like later (yes Mom - after I've been there).

Staff: 25 - Guests: 6

After landing on a dirt runway (yes, but recently renovated: longer, winder, and smoother) - we took a 30 minutes drive through safari-land to the Royal Mara Lodge Located In Masai Mara. We saw giraffes and other wonders (and this wasn't even technically a "game drive." But, who am I to stop nature from doing its thing on its own timetable.

Wow!

Edward, our driver, told us that our hotel (which usually accommodates 160 people during peak season - July/August) was a running a bit under occupancy. Apparently, no one got the word (from the pilot) that Kenya is still a wonderful, safe, and beautiful place to visit this time of year (or simply - this year).

It made for a very odd experience, having a hotel staff that outnumbered the guests 4 to 1! Even so, I'm not complaining. It meant that instead of a buffet - we got gourmet meals hand prepared by the head chef (and wow - those meals were some of the best I've had - ever). Also, out on Safari - we avoided the "safari experience" of being in a line to see the animals. Instead of 20+ vans of people cruising around looking for lions, hippose, rhinos, etc... there were 3 (maybe 4). We had the land to ourselves and had a bast!

Anyhow - to repeat. Now is the time to Safari in Kenya!


Notice how empty the pool is.

This is Your Pilot Speaking

We flew to/from the Safari (thus avoiding the long, bumping, tedious "bus" ride). It cost a bit, but the whole adventure was well worth it.

One thing that stood out was the pilot handing me a box of mints on the plane as we prepared to take off and suggested that everyone enjoy one as an in-flight-snack. I think there were 11 of us on the flight (including the flight crew).

Anyhow, I felt like perhaps I was on the set of Indiana Jones, since our plane was about that same size/build as the ones he used to travel the world (maybe a bit newer): 2 props, a couple doors, plenty of window seats (don't ask how I managed not to get one), low altitude flights and flight durations (jumping from airport to airport) ranging from 6 minutes to 35 minutes. Fun times.

On our return flight, our pilot (American, I think) took a moment to encourage us to do the following (tell our friends about how great is is to visit Kenya and how the news reports are "probably true, but certainly unbalanced." His point being (and I paraphrase as I fulfill my assignment): large parts of Kenya are safe. Really! And super cool to visit. We had a wonderful time on Safari and never once worried about the unrest that is plaguing other parts of this country. Come, enjoy the spectacular that is Kenya.

There. Done. I could go on, and I will in another entry. Thing is, it was just funny to have the pilot of our airplane basically pleading with us to remind our friends and neighbors that there is still a wonderful, but apparently overlooked (currently) vacation destination (a destination that his job depends on you visiting, I presume).

So yeah: Visit Kenya. I highly recommend it.

Safari!

OK, that's probably the fastest safari on the planet (actually - I'm kind of willing to guarantee such). We flew out of Nairobi at 10 am yesterday and returned (having seen much - see below) today at 1 pm. So, pretty-much a 24 hour trip into the wilderness.

And yet - to be frank - I think I saw what I "needed to." We saw four of the "Big Five" (Leopard, Elephant, Rhino, Lion, Buffalo) - we never found a Leopard. We also crossed paths with various birds, hippos, giraffes, wilder beasts, butterflies, hyenas, gazelles, and more. And yes - I took a few pictures (actually more than a few - 8).

Thing about the photos... I took many of them with my new friend (Sara Durden)'s camera. She brought a slcik 10.2 mega-pixel Nikon D40 SLR. Needless to say, I now want one. Sadly, she got quite sick and had to skip our 24 hour adventure into Masai Mara - but she was kinda enough to suggest that I take her camera with me. [Now the trick: to get the photos from her - she lives on the east cost, and I don't.]

Anyhow, we got really close to so many different animals. So much so, that the gazelles that amazed in during hour-one were "old hat" by the time we had to leave. Funny how that happens. Even so, I kept clicking the shutter. I'll see what I can do to whittle down the number of photos (for those who care to browse the highlights).

Hakuna Matata

Don't worry. I've survived (and completely enjoyed) my week away from civilization - yet I couldn't stay away from the internet for another moment.

I've pretty much decided thought that I'll be writing up the trip and all the adventures... after I return. Time is short and the computer options are somewhat limiting.

Suffice it to say, things are grand. Our travel group has been a great mix of people from around the US. Three of us were new to Kenya, and the other six helped us to quickly adjust.

The people near Kitundu were wonderful and I took a bazillion photos of smiling kids (as well as hard working adults and amazing landscapes). The work we did there was exhausting, but the impact will be nothing shy of amazing.

From here, we head out to a safari. We'll be sleeping in "tents" tomorrow night, but I'm told these aren't normal tents.

Anyhow, that's enough to let you know I'm alive and well and enjoying myself. If you've been checking back looking for updates, thanks for up-ing my web counter and I appologize for the limited entries. I promise to make up for it later. And if you haven't been checking, then - well - I congratualte you on not wasting time on the internet.

No Riots in Kenya

Yup - that's what our taxi driver said on the way from the airport yesterday. Granted, he then took the roundabout way to avoid certain parts of town (I love having a GPS). Eventually he fessed up and said there "had" been some riots, but people were tired of it now. Anyhow, whatever the case - the city (the parts I saw) are all pretty safe and average.

We're leaving in an hour to go to Kitundu (where they don't have electricity, so internet is pretty much out of the question). Yes, I'm alive. Things are great. I did laundry in my bathroom yesterday. We are now 9 people and we're excited for our week ahead.

The final and third week will have us on Safari and visiting other parts of the country. I'm worried though, since I can't seem to find the rest of my AA batteries. Camera - don't fail me now!!!!

dave

DSL - I think not.

This is my fourth attempt (in as many days) to add an entry to this blog (don't think that I've forgotten you - my avid readers). I'm currently in Kigali, Rwanda and I'm just happy to have finally found an internet cafe with computers that appears to be working and an internet connection. Just don't expect photos or videos at this point.

Rwanda has been fantastic. The people are so friendly and the landscapes are more than I would have ever imagined. I must admit I knew little/nothing about this country before we got here. Oh sure, I saw "Hotel Rwanda" and I read the intro in the Lonely Planet book, but that's barely scratching the surface. We've met some wonderful people while adventuring through the country. I could come back here.

Tomorrow, we fly back to Nairobi for part two of the trip - but here are a few things that have happened so far:
- 4 movies during our 2 flights (17 hours of flying time)
- surprise meeting with Simon at airport
- flat tire in parking lot
- tea with Simon
- moutain hikes
- meeting Stephen
- malaria prevention side-effects
- motocycle rides
- lost passport (thankfully not mine)
- found passport (an hour later - stressful!)
- breakfast included (hot chocolate and bread)
- forgotten rain coat - a minor problem when it rains
- Treking with Gorillas
- COLD shower
- early morning Rwandan Police Department PT Training run
- new friends from Connecticut

Suffice it to say - that fact that only a week has passed is really quite stunning for all of us to refect on (there goes the dangling participle again). Anyhow, we've been having a wonderful time. I highly recommend Rwanda. Throw out any misconceptions of danger or lack of safety. We all agree that Rwanda actually seems much safer than Nairobi.

Anyhow, I hope you're well. I'd say to write, but email is harder to accomplish than posting to the blog... So yeah... I'll be in touch in February (and hopefully I'll find time and means to post before then).

dave

Only in Kenya

My sister sent me this several weeks ago, and I figured it was the bast way to answer the big question... "So Dave, are you still going to Kenya!"



Yup!

To Africa or Not To Africa That is the Question

Let me set the stage - if I may.

Several months ago, my friend invited me to join her on a service trip to Africa. In 2007, she went with them to Kenya and helped build a school in a local village - and decided to go back for another round. She promised me it would be worthwhile, amazing, and downright wonderful. I trust her. So, when she suggested I join the group on this year's trip - I just couldn't say no. And I said yes.

The plan is to go to Kitundu, Kenya and work through the local Anglican Church building an expansion onto their school. We're also taking school supplies, clothes, toys and other items that will - hopefully - benefit them. In fact, we got a group of friends together on Sunday (past) and made school kits (borrowing the idea from LDS Humanitarian Services) to distribute - and we've prepped a small "Noah's Ark" lesson plan/activity to do (multiple times) with various groups of children.

Anyhow, that's the plan... Now the problem.

Kenya had elections in December, and they didn't go smoothly. And unlike the less-than-smooth U.S. election of 2000 - the contested results of their presidential election has led to a fair amount of civil unrest.

Dave's Political Sidenote: I think too few people recognize or appreciate the miracle we enjoy (in the U.S.) of a stable government. Many Americans have issues with "this or that" in U.S. politics - and that is good. But, knowing that those differences won't be settled by blood thirsty gangs is something we ought reflect on*.

Anyhow, Kitundu is south east of Nairobi and the areas of major unrest are elsewhere. So, as the days go by, and our departure date approaches - we've been watching the news and praying that conditions will still be suitable for our visit. As of January 10, the plans are still on.

In addition to the service portion of the trip, 3 of us (Sara, Jen and I) are visiting Uganda and Rwanda before going to the village in Kenya. So, we leave on Friday and go first to Kigali, Rwanda (3 flights over roughly 30 hours). The original plan was to take a bus from Kenya to Rwanda - a lengthy bus, but an adventure to be sure. Since that bus would go right through the hot spots of western Kenya, we opted for the faster, easier, and safer option: an airplane.

After a week in/about Rwanda/Uganda, we'll head to Nairobi to meet up with the 6 other americans and our local hosts to head off down the dusty road to Kitundu. Upon finishing our work in the village, we're slated for a 2 day safari and then it's time for another couple days of flying!

I don't know if/how much access I'll have to the internet while I'm traveling, but I'll update as time/conditions permit. If all else fails, you can expect detailed blogs upon return.

Hopefully this entry satiates some need for information as the days pass by. I look forward to hearing from you.

dave

* Yes, Mom. I know. I ended that sentence with a preposition. Admitting a problem is the first step to overcoming it.

2007 Central America

It's a travel blog, and I haven't been traveling lately - so I haven't updated it. With any luck, that's all about to change.

In the mean time - if you're interested in reading about last year's adventure to Central America, I've summed things up in one not-so-brief summary.

Or maybe all you want is photos or videos.

Read and view as much/little as you like.