Years ago, I visited Israel, Jordan and Egypt. At the time, I remember thinking "Ah so this is how it 'used to be' in teh old days." (or something like that). We wandered the "old city" in Jerusalem, and visited "tell" after "tell" (an archeological ruin of a once-trhiving villiage.
Now enter Yemen. They too have an old city, and a few ruins as well, but more than that - they have villiage after villiage built 1000s of years ago - still inhabited by people (many living something close to their traditional lifestyles). Sadly (or gladly, depending on your point of view) that has started to change, but only in the last 25 years.
And so, as we visited the countryisde around Sana'a (the capitol) the sights and soughts were awesome (and I don't mean that in a surfer's "awesome" way - but really - I was in awe). The Yemeni people 1000+ years ago terraces entire mountains. They found/made ways to grow crops anywhere and everywhere. Looking out over the mountains it was (really) a jaw-dropping moment (one after another).
In just the last few decades, these terraces that lasted generation after generation have bengun to deteriourate (as the people migrate en-mass to Sana'a and other large cities), but what they've left behind isn't a "tell" yet (so it's much easier to see and understand).
But more than just their fields, they figured out amazing ways to build in the desert and find water and survive in such an inhospitable environment. 1000s of years, and no options - you do what you gotta do.
Much of the landscape reminded me of Moab or the Grand Canyon. And trust me - what they did in the ensuing years was nothing like Havasupai or a camp site at Arhces. 8 story buildings made of rocks... built at the highest points... to protect against invaders. On one hand, I kept saying "Who would decide to live here?" On the other hand, I kept asking "How could anyone live here?"
These were amzingly hard working, industrious, and dedicated people.
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