Got Qat?

Did I say the Yemani people were industrious, clever, dedicated, and hard working? They were. Today, en masse - the entire population seems destined to a life of idleness and drug abuse. I'm only sort of exagerating.

In my preivious post, I mented terraced farming and the amazing techniques the ancient Yemeni people devised to grow their crops. One of the main crops was coffee. Fair enough, it's been around for ages and a great cash crop for many countries throughout the world.

In recent years though, coffee has been found less profitable than "Qat." What is Qat and why is it more profitable? Well - it's a mild narcotic and it seems that 70% of the population chews it. And when I say "chews it" - any MLB player's chewing habit pales comparison. They start (daily) at 1pm and chew for 5+ hours (one little leaf at a time. Chip and Dale have nothing on the average male member of Yemeni society's puffy cheeks.




























I found this photo online, but this was a common site every day, everywhere. Even the military guards at the check points had mouthfulls of chewed leaves (and 3 hour old syliva). Yuck.

Point is - 70%+ of men chew it; 70%+ of the Yemeni water supply goes to growing it;70%+ of the work day is spent chewing it; and I don't know for sure, but it seems like 70%+ of one's annual salary goes to buying it.

Without going into a deep political tirate about social issues... this experience solidified my belief that legalizing drugs is NOT the answer. Qat is completely legal in Yemen. Legalized drug use isn't the solution to the druig problems we face in the US (or elsewhere).

Sometimes it's good (even appropriate) to say, as a society, that something is inappropriate (what we do when we say something is illegal) - even if a lot of people like doing it... for the sake of society as a whole.

Yemen - Where it all started

Years ago, I visited Israel, Jordan and Egypt. At the time, I remember thinking "Ah so this is how it 'used to be' in teh old days." (or something like that). We wandered the "old city" in Jerusalem, and visited "tell" after "tell" (an archeological ruin of a once-trhiving villiage.

Now enter Yemen. They too have an old city, and a few ruins as well, but more than that - they have villiage after villiage built 1000s of years ago - still inhabited by people (many living something close to their traditional lifestyles). Sadly (or gladly, depending on your point of view) that has started to change, but only in the last 25 years.

And so, as we visited the countryisde around Sana'a (the capitol) the sights and soughts were awesome (and I don't mean that in a surfer's "awesome" way - but really - I was in awe). The Yemeni people 1000+ years ago terraces entire mountains. They found/made ways to grow crops anywhere and everywhere. Looking out over the mountains it was (really) a jaw-dropping moment (one after another).

In just the last few decades, these terraces that lasted generation after generation have bengun to deteriourate (as the people migrate en-mass to Sana'a and other large cities), but what they've left behind isn't a "tell" yet (so it's much easier to see and understand).

But more than just their fields, they figured out amazing ways to build in the desert and find water and survive in such an inhospitable environment. 1000s of years, and no options - you do what you gotta do.

Much of the landscape reminded me of Moab or the Grand Canyon. And trust me - what they did in the ensuing years was nothing like Havasupai or a camp site at Arhces. 8 story buildings made of rocks... built at the highest points... to protect against invaders. On one hand, I kept saying "Who would decide to live here?" On the other hand, I kept asking "How could anyone live here?"

These were amzingly hard working, industrious, and dedicated people.

Where to begin - lundry Perhaps?

I feel like I could write volumes at this point. Oman was fantastic, but I still haven't even written up Yemen yet, and the adventures of the last 2 days here in UAE make for laugh upon laugh.

Rachel, my dad, Anna, and a slew of other people ahve been trying to find me (and I've been trying to find them) for a day or so. It's incredible how being "disconnected" can backfire when all you really want (in the moment) is to connect! Oops. Limited internet in Oman and a desire to pack every spare moment and well... what do you know... I lost Rachel.

With any luck, we'll meet up this evening and we're heading to Nepal tomorrow. Crazy life I live!?

FYI - laundry is not easily "done" in Abu Dhabi (you know - just in case you ever try). And frankly, I've been "aiming" for today as "Laundry Day." So, although I still smell pretty today, you might not want to be near me (on the flight, nonetheless) tomorrow. Wish me (and my seat-mates) luck!

You see - there just are not laundry mats (sp). They just don't exist (at least not near where I am). Instead, there are TONS of little stores that will wash items of clothing (as long as you're willing to give them 10 hours and a crazy amount of cahs). 3 shirts, 3 pants, and all my underwear: $18.

Oh sure, I could wash it and hang it in my hotel, but I have to check out long before it would be dry, and who wants moldy clothes in Nepal? Not me.

Anyhow, this is supposed to be funny, but it probably just comes accross like yet another "rookie mistake." I don't count it as such, but dang... seriously people: someon could make a killing by opening a launrdy mat. Get rich scheme, here I come: I'm moving to Abu Dhabi and opening a laundry mat!