Going Away

Here's a little fun and frivolity from the night I left. We had a few people over in honor of SM2 and Me. Kevin entertained everyone with a dance and they he made me kiss Jello (even though it sure reminded me of Sarah).



Who is Kevin Singing about? I have no idea.

Itxapa

Did I spell that right? I guess it really doesn't matter.

This afternoon I took another school-led field trip. At some point, I'll need to get out and actually guide myself through this town and get into some of its buildings (luckily I have 4 more weeks), but until then - I'm getting my fill of school-led outings. I figure they're on a 2-3 week rotation, so pretty soon they'll run out of things I want to do.

Anyhow, today we headed out to another Peublo to see "real life" in Guatemala (Antigua is a pretty rich/touristy version of Guatemala). Itxapa is a pretty run down (comparatively) city and the reason we went there though was to compare and contrast the two prevalent religious of hte country.

Believe it or not, those women hovering over mounds of apparent trash are engaged in a religious ritual. It seems that arrording to Alfredo and my broken understanding of his Spanish) that when Catholicism hit the country, some of the locals decided to create a religion that was the antitesis of Christianity. Inside their church, they have statues of a "diety," but the figure is surrounded by (no joke) Marlboro cigarettes, open bottles of alcohol, and money. He's dressed in dark clothes and wearing a sombrero. He even has a companion next to him in his quest to be not what the God of the Christian is.

When we visted the chapel there was a couple "praying" to him as one would find people praying in a cathedral, but not as one would find in a cathedral - if you get my meaning.

Out in front of the building the women were burning food products and other assorted items as offerings and they had black candles that they would pray with and then toss into their smokey fires on behalf of themselves and others. Oh and don´t forget the guy smoking the huge cigars!

Anyhow, the point is: various religions have come about for various reasons for various peoples in various lands. Having heard plenty about the dominance of the conquering Spaniards and their professed Catholocism, I can understand why some here would have felt a strong urge to oppose it and what it taught and stood for.

On the other side of town, there was a nice simple Catholic chappel with all the usual Christian symbols, paintings, sculptures, etc... along with a few posted announcements from the Pope. It was a simple building compared to some fo the older ones from centuries past, but it's a mere 1/4 mile from the other "church." So, we had a short lecture about how the first church accpeted dringing, smoking, prostitution, homosexuality, you name it, etc... So, if you're looking for a church that will let you do anything you want. I think I've found it.

Granted, church isn't about being told you can do anything you want (at least, I don't think it should be). You can tell yourself that anytime you want - without a church. Religion is about finding the most fulfilling way to live in this life and hereafter (though an appeal to a diety that knows more than you do), which may in fact require sacrifice of certain desire, pleasures or past-times.... But, hey - I'm no more a theologian than I am an architect, but I am reading my favorite travel book for the 3rd time. I think everyone should read it (espially - but not only - anyone who complains about religion and God and the state of the world).

Interesting sidenote about the Catholic churches here in Guatemala... They often have 1 or 2 indiginous (sp) men out front playing music to entice people or members of local religions to enter therein. The song is the same at all churches, and the reason stems from the native people's desire to pray outside (whereas most Christians seem to prefer indoor worship). So, if you build a church for indoor worship in a land where people are used to worshiping outside???... Play music to invite them in - of course!

So much for teaching the priciples of salvation, forgiveness, progression, mercy, fulfillment and all that... Just play a little music and hope they'll pray to their gods inside your church. That counts, right?

Blogging in Guatemala

Here I am at the internet cafe right by our school. If you look really close you can see the blogspot page on my screen (maybe). Anyhow, point is. I finally got some photos on my page. You'll probably have to scan through old posts, but they're there.

These computers AND the bandwidth to the internet is slow (did I say slow?). I miss the old DSL of the Ohio House, but hey - what do you expect for $1 an hour!?

It's no "Tour de France"

Today, we rented some bikes and went for a tour of the southern part of the city. This was cool for a variety of reasons:

1) I can say I'm still training for a future triathlon. I may not be running, swimming or biking daily, but since I was late for dinner last night (I got to run home) and we did this bike tour today, I've hit two out of three.

2) We went south out of the main city, so we saw stuff most people probably miss on a visit to Antigua.

3) We had the usually entertaining antics of Alfredo from the school.

4) These bikes weren't exactly top-notch, but even that made for an interesting ride around town.

This morning on the way to school, my roommates and I actually saw a kid get hit by a car. Things are kinda crazy on te streets here. Granted, everything moves in slow motion (which is a very good thing for this morning). He walked/rode away unharmed (relatively speaking), but he was obviously irate (and rightly so).

Anyhow, our ride was relatively unevntful, though we did see goats, old buildings, coffee plants, and we got an education in far-out stories about kidnappings, illegal adoptions, and organ theft. I don't know what's true and what's not, but that's half the fun!

The buildings are really amazing (or rather, they certainly were in their time). Instead of stone, they used bricks and then covered them to look like stone. They seriously put a lot of work into these buildings. It's too bad time has taken such a toll on them. Many of the churches are far out of the city and no one really "uses" them anymore and so they're actually locked up to hopefully preserve what's left.

Anyhow, that was my afternoon. I sprinkled on us and I feared a downpour, but all worked out fine.

Three Months in Korea

If I may digress for a moment and do a quick comparison of Spanish and Korean...

There are several students at the school from Korea, and there's even a Korean restaurnt in town. I lived in Korea for 2 years (from 1990 to 1992) and somehow managed to learn enough korean to speak with relative efficiency, but certainly not fluency. It was a great time and maybe the subject of another blog (or not).

However, as I'm sitting in class... or eating dinner with my house mom... or shopping in the stores... or asking directions... or doing my homework... etc...

I can't help but think back to my first week in Korea. I had already "studied" Korean at the MTC for 8ish weeks and yet I couldn't understand squat - let alone make any sort of meaningful contribution to conversations. I still rememeber (as a missionary) sitting in a house while "we" were teaching a Korean college student. I was lost beyond belief as the discussion unfolded around me and equally bored because I could do nothing but pray for the best from our visit. I think I might have said "I'm from New York and I have 5 people in my family." That experience happend over and over for the first few months. I learned that language "poco a poco" and enventually could hold me own.

Anyhow, after one week I'm able to carry on conversations and even tell stories to my teacher about life in America, my experiences walking around the city, even my unexpected nuptials. Heck, we occasionally even talk about politics and ecoconomics in class. I think that I'm able to speak Spanish about as well as I could after being IN Korea for 3-4 months. The difference is incredible.

I'm missing all sorts of tences, and I have to look up some pretty obvious words, but I can carry on without being completely flustered and stopped at every corner. It's really cool!

On the other hand, I have noticed that I'm not terribly talkative with people in Spanish because I don't have a "topic" to make me talk. I am very adept at travelling in countries where I don't speak the language and so I've learned to survive very easily without language. I'm trying to talk more, but even so... The advantage I had in Korea of having the assignments of a missionary to push me to talk and practice are aspects of this experinece that I'm having to substitute.

Plus, In Korea - I had but one person with whom I could speak english - Elder Kirk Niceler. Here in Antigua, there are english speakers everywhere (from all over the globe: Holland, Sweeden, Montreal, Chicago, Philladelphia, California, etc...).

Photos (No Photos)

Someone somewhere is probably screaming, "Where are the photos Dave?" And I'll get some posted eventually. It turns out it's more difficult that I'd expected to upload photos (ie I have to do it one at a time and that's a very tedious process when I already have 264).

'''

I´ve posted a few throughout the blog. More later.

dave

I got married!

The school took a minibus-load of us out to a nearby Pueblo to see the Mayan culture in action. In was really a visit to a store run by and for the indigenous artisans, but I'm ok with that. They offer a brief overview of customs, clothes, food and ceremonies as a learning experience. They then offer to sell you tons of stuff after the presentation is over. They weren't overly pushy, so I wasn't put-off by the trade-off. (I'm willing to NOT buy things and they were still willing to teach me the basics of their culture and history). One of the girls in the group didn't like how comercialized it was. I get her point, but I didn't mind (I'm kinda used to it though, since it was similar throughout the middle east).

They explained the time and methods of their hand sewing/weaving to create some beautiful textiles, clothes, etc... On of the adminitrators from our school also talked a while about the history of the indigenous peoples and their place in Guatemalan society. These mini-lectures are superficial, but that's about all I can handle anyhow since they're in Spanish. It's actually quite cool to realize that I'm understanding more and more.

[A quick aside... After the field trip to the , some of us went back to the free dance place. This time (more men than women). I just thought I'd throw that out there... before continuing with the Pueblo story.]

So, at the Pueblo - they explained various things about the artistic qualities of their products, etc... and then (partly to entertain and partly to educate) they had several volunteers from the class dress up and re-enact their traditional wedding ceremony.

Well... you see... I was the only guy in the group (aside form the guy from the school), so you guessed it: I got married yesterday! It was all pretty sudden. I think I met my bride-to-be on the bus on the way to the ceremony, and I'm pretty sure her name is/was Lucy. By the time things were done, she was working in the house and I was a field hand and she was caring for our first child (and getting ready to handle 3 or 4 more if need be). And to think I spent all that time actually "dating" to find a wife when all it takes is a short ride in a minibus in Guatemala!

I think that secures it. I'm done dating. Soooooo not worth it. Far too much effort and no payoff. From now on... I'm a mini-bus guy!

My Journal

An entry from my "real" journal...

So I've been blogging my trip online. I'm a bit frustrated by that process actually. Not many people look at it - which is good. In reality, i don't like my writing style whe I write under the time crunch of the internet cafe login fees. I'm also realizing that it's difficult to write a blog for such a varried audience. I invited friends, family, old aquaintances and cowokers to view it. So, I'm writing to married & single, old & young, religious (LDS and other) & non-religious, seasoned travers & and unadventurous alike.

So anyhow, I'm not sure what to write or what will actually be of interest to people. A true journal would read differently, but I'm not just writing for myself.

Also, in trying to explain what I'm seeing and doing, I'm realizing that I really don't know what I'm seeing (or rather "about" what I'm seeing). Kathryn's log was so engaging and I feel like mine is just a random hodge-podge. It's hard to say really.

I tend to write some pretty good stuff when I take the time to write and fine-tune and target a specific audience. I think I just need to find my voice and my audinence.

I've really enjoyed this trip thus far. The first week was fun, surprising, enlightening, relaxing and more.

I feel like I'm learning Spanish pretty quick, but I also feel like 10 weeks won't be enough. Of my 6 weeks in Guatemala, 1 is already gone. I can't tell if I'll learn faster or slower as time passes. You know, I don't know the shape of my Spanish learning curve.

Travel-wise, I like having a home-base and a not-so-rushed-schedule. On many of my prvious trips I've been cramming to fit things in. Granted, the danger of having 6 weeks is that I'll get complacent... and end up cramming at the end. Unlikely, but still a possibility.

At church today, Tyler called Tamerindo, "Tamagringo." I'm afraid I may not enjoy it as much as hoped. Granted, i've known all along that there's less "culture" there but more "fun." So, after intense Spanish here, I'll continue there with the added bonus of learning to surf and amazing natural wonders. So, I guess I'm "aware" more than "worried!"

I've been considering if/how I might extend this trip. Sure, I haven't even been gone a full week... but still: for only $25 I can change my flights and there's so much great stuff to see and places to go. Tyler outlined a solid week of potential travels in eastern Costa Rica as well as Panama. Plus, there are plenty of places here in Guatemala I might not get to while I'm in school. Anyhow, it's something to think about. As it is, I go home on 5/20.

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Anyhow, that aws a entry in my perosnal entry. I think it covers some stuff in plain enough language that it's worth including in the blog. I'm still trying to figure out what/how to write for the internet audience, and I was a bit bummed by what I'd written so far. So there. The entries will continue. Including info about native Mayans, more dance classes and people I'm meeting. But, for now - I'm late for dinner and I have to get home.

dave

I Am, Therefore I Dance

Today's school sponsored post-class activity: Salsa Dancing...
How could I say "no?"

I have a long (though somewhat not-so-well-known) history of pretending to be a dancer. I was half-way to a dance minor at BYU before I decided that 2 minors (Film and English) were enough (not to mention almost getting a Korean minor as well).

Anyhow, point is - I've done some dancing in my day... but never Salsa. Now, lest you think one free group-lesson taught me anything, let me disuade you from your lofty plans to market me with those VonTrapp family singers. I have a long way to go, but it was still a fun afternoon activity (and a great opportunity to put the Spanish to use). The instructor rambled on about 8-counts and such in Spanish and (for the most part) I kept up. Granted, I probably would have done fine without ANY Spanish, but still...

Fun times... I think I'll go again.

And yes, like all dance clases... It was 2/3 women and 1/3 men. No complaints here (except for those regarding that freakish Sweedish chica and that really abrasive 60+ year old Americano - who couldn't dance to save his life).

The Church of the Final Days

I'm Mormon* and I like to go to church (even when I'm on vacation). In most countries I've vistied, I usually flip throught the phone book and find the listing for the "Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints" (or it's equivalent) and give them a call). In most countries this is actually pretty easy (Mexico, Germany, Spain, Canada... even France).

Well, phonebooks are not common here. (I have yet to see one.)

Luckily though, Kathryn drew me a map to the approximate location of the church back in LA. So, on Friday - I went searching, so that I'd know where to go on Sunday. I was also hoping to find the meeting times posted, since I forgot to ask Kathryn for that important detail.

Anyhow, I wandered up to where I thought the church should be and I didn't see anything like a church. So, using my recently mastered Spanish I asked a man (with his wife and daughter) who were loading up on a moped, "Do you know where the Church of Jesus Christ of the Final Days is?" A poor translation to be sure, but I figured I was in the right part of the city so they'd have to know it. Nope.

So they drove off and I kept walking (back the way I'd come, because I was pretty sure I'd gone too far). Then to my surprise a few minutes later, he comes zooming up (with family still on the moped) and says he checked up one road and it's not up there either.

I'm thinkin, "Hey dude - thanks for the effort, but I didn't mean to put you out of your way. I'm sure I'll find it, so don't worry about it. Thanks for you help."

I said, "Está bein."

We smiled, he said other random stuff. I told him I didn't know what the heck he was saying (ie I said, "No comprendo.) and he rode off laughing and looking worried at the same time.

A few minutes later, he's back... My first thought was, "Oh my gosh, I've ruined this family's evening and now they feel obligated to keep checking up on this lost gringo." But, to my surprise, they had found it "The Church of the Saints of the Latter-days." Ah yes, I'd forgotten the "Saints" part in my initial query (not that that would have made any difference).

He pointed down the street at a yellow building in the distance and said that it was the church I sought. He was so happy (as was I)!

So I started walking over to the building to confirm his suggestion and see if there were times posted. Upon ariving, I saw the all-familiar old-school LDS logo on the building with the words "la Iglesia de Jesus Christo de los Santos de los Ultimos Dias."

And then, look who comes riding up on the moped - the happy man and his family. He's giddy that I've found my church! What can I say besides, "Gracias?"

Eventually we parted ways, but I was impressed by his willingness to drive up and down all these streets looking for the church for me and save me all the time and effort. This would not have been the case in, some other places I've been.

When I got to church on Sunday, I ran into another American (Tyler) who had just come from Costa Rica and he gave me various tips on what to see/do there. I asked him how HE found the church. He said he just asked people where the "Mormons" were and that "everyone knows the 'Mormons.'"

Dur! I should have know...

*Just use the word that people understand (here or in the US). Yeah, "Mormon" is a nick name, but so what... People know what it means. THEN, if they care - go ahead and explain the full name and it's meaning.

Processionals

I planned this trip so that I would be here in Antigua at just this time of year: Lent. This is the biggest festivalof the year for Antigua (and I suppose the whole Christian world, but Antigua isn't screwing around). They have parades (you can't really call them that... "Processionals") every Saturday / Sunday from now until Easter. And really, "parade" is soooo an understatement. Today's processional started at noon and goes until 11:30 tonight. Yes, that's ELEVEN hours+. And next week's runs from 7 am to 11 pm...

Now, lest you think this is just a few high school bands marching through the streets and the local Brownie Troop meandering down the road next to a unicycling clown, it's not THAT kind of parade at all. This is a religious tradition started (I think) in Seville Spain (and they still do it there - even bigger than here).

The Spaniards who settled (er, conquered) Guatemala 500+ years ago brought the tradition with them and it lives on in Antigua (and to a much smaller degree in a few other places in Guatemala as well). Key to the processionals are large floats/statues (I don't know what to call them) signifying Christ, the Virgin Mary, etc...

I've only seen one Processional so far (I'm going to today's later this evening), but it was amazing... Luckily, it doesn't take 12 hours to see it, since it passes by in fairly short time and you're down. Then, it continues on throughout the city. The one yesterday was the kids' Processional. Yup, kids doing all the walking, etc... Now, this may not seem all that strange (kids are always in parades in the US), but you have to remember that they're carrying the big religious floats / kid-sized though they may be (carrying... they don't go on cars, bikes, or other wheeled vehicles... the people - in this case, children - carry them).

So, imagine - if you can - 14 young girls carrying a "float" of the Virgin Mary that likely weighs more than 1000 lbs. Or 14 boys carring a "float" with a representation of Chist on top. No helium here!

Now you say, "What's the point of carrying these massive objects down the street all day?" Honestly, I don't know the exact rational of those who started it all hundreds of years ago, but I think it hs something to do with showing appreciation for the Savior's willingness to carry our burdens or giving of one's self as a symbolic acceptance of all He gave.

At first - I thought it all a bit strange, but yesterday as I watched the kids (and their parents on the sidewalks watching) I started to catch the vision of this community-wide event to commemorate their collective belief and appreciation for their religion, their God, and their Savior.

Now, I realize that once something gets this big, there are likely some people doing it simply because it's "fun" or "memorable" or because there's nothing else to "do" on a Saturday in March... but that doesn't change the fact that it, at its heart, a celebration and a reminder of the gospel and of Christ. And that's a good thing.

Now, the "carpet" comment from the tour guide... "everybody likes to make carpets for Jesus." Along the route of the processional, people make hand-made "carpets" out of plants, colored saw-dust, and other perishable materials. They spend hours making them, and they finish the final touches only moments before the processional passes by. Then, their hours of hard-work are destoryed in mere minute as the carriers and watchers make their way by. So again the question, "What's the point of making such a beautiful composition, just to have it moments-thereafter destoyed?"

And I'm guessing the answers are something to the effect of: Give al you can. Do as much as you can. Spare no effort. Christ is coming this way (even if only symbolically), so make it as beautiful as possible.

Anyhow, I'll probably understand this all a lot better by April 8th (easter), but that's enough for now.

Contacting Dave

One thing I forgot to do when I left town was to turn off my cell phone. Wooops. Now THAT's a monthly charge I don't need!

Anyhow, I used Skype and made my first-ever internaional call the internet to verizon and that phone is 'no longer.' Actually, it's on hold, so (in theory) I'll have the same number when I return.

Anyhow, my point - if you called recently (a call which I obviously didn't answer) and left a message... it's gone forever.

However, if you're THAT anxious to find me while I'm traveling, my email address is still broadbent@byu.net and I occasionally appear on Microsoft Live as zebostoneleigh@yahoo.com and on Skype as zebostoneleigh. Who knows, if you login and stare at your screen long enough (and wish hard enough), I might just show up!