A Solitary Vagabond

Would You Like to Buy a Camel?

2008-12-30T10:04:00.000-08:00

Yes, that's what I said: Would you like to by a camel?

Although much of the "old life" of the UAE seems to have been swallowed up in the past 50 years of modernization, there are still some things that never change (much). A short drive (relatively speaking, since it took me nearly 24 hours to get there by plane) outside Abu Dhabi, there is a camel market. Yup, they sell and trade camels. I guess it makes sense, but still - who'd a thunk it.

Anyhow, it's a big open field surrounded on all sides with sellers of all sorts, sizes, ages, and styles of camels. I'm not quite sure who buys them - or why (except for those guys who offer rides to people on safari), but hey - camels: they're tradition. The market is right near the border with Oman, so I guess it's actually an international camel market (not to mention the fact that - like everything else in the UAE - the people doing the selling weren't actually from the UAE). I met a camel sellers - presumably working for the camel owners - from Pakistan, Iran, and Egypt.

Ah the memories. If only I could have fit one in my carry-on bag, I'd have brought one back. I mean really - who doesn't want a camel?

Desert Safari - Rollercoaster

2008-12-30T09:43:00.000-08:00

I went on a safari back in January in Africa. Amazing indeed... And when Rachel suggested the same - a "Desert Safari" - as an activity not to miss in Dubai... once again: I couldn't say no. Honestly though, when they (the sales people) started describing it with words like "dune bashing" and "roller-coaster" I really didn't "get" it.

The afternoon/evening started with a drive through - and over - the desert. They intentionally found the rougher terrain and steeper hills... to better prove (test?) the theory that Chevy Tahoes will not roll over (regardless of what conventional wisdom or expectations of gravity might otherwise dictate).

We stopped for some amazing views of the desert and ended with camel rides, a belly dancer (always a good thing) and dinner (beduin style). A very cool day-trip indeed, and highly recommended, even if the only animals I saw were the camels (which makes me wonder how they get away with calling it a "safari").

Oh well - amazing nonetheless. Plus, I got 2 tattoos for free as part of the package deal (alas, they'll wash of in a week). Dang (or not).

Hot and Cold in Dubai

2008-12-30T09:22:00.000-08:00

Dubai may lack in "culture" these days - as the whole "we're still trying to figure out what to do with this much money" thing works itself out. But, in the mean time - there's ample "crazy" things to do. The Atlantis Hotel (just completed out on Jumeirah Island) has an amazing (and free - thank you) indoor aquarium.

And although it's hot in Dubai (80f in December, and 110f in August) and very humid all year round (didn't expect that did you).... don't let any of that stop the winter fun. They built an indoor ski slope and we just couldn't say "no."

So, although I didn't get in any skiing this year in the US (despite my recent trip to snowy UT and my recent non-trip to snowy Idaho)) - I did have a wonderful afternoon hitting the slopes in Dubai. All real snow, too! Fresh snow everyday... It's 31 degrees during the day and 5 degrees at night.

Look closely at both images and you'll see how..
1) crazy big the indoor aquarium is
2) what an amazing assortment of fish they have
3) the types of lifts (yes, plural) the slopes have
4) the style of AC units they've installed
- not something you see everyday on the "mountain"

Tall, Mall or Palm...

2008-12-28T04:56:00.001-08:00

Tall buildings, and lots of them. That's what Dubai has. Jen and I took a bus tour around the city (it took all day and we still didn't see everything) and the end result was "no matter where you look there is a tall building being built." But if you look out (instead of up) you'll likely see a mall. This is the only city bus tour I have taken (and I've taken a few around the world - I like them) that stopped at 5 different malls (as attractions in the city). We only got off the bus for one of the malls (thanks).

So, tall buildings and malls - eh? That... and man made islands in the shape of palm trees (the national symbol). Seriously, this may rank as "number one sign you have too much money" (building a plethora of different custom-shaped island leisure complexes). I'm just sayin'.

But hey - for a guy traveling the world in search of leisure - good for them (and good for me). It was really amazing to see
1) what the wealth has afforded them the opportunity to do,
2) how they hope to thereafter maintain that wealth based on today's imagination

The city is really hard to explain in words. It's kinda like "Vegas without the gambling and with a little more class." And it's kinda like someone decided to build another Disneyland (except much larger) and let people in before it was finished.

Since things are changing here so fast, and since they have so much planned (or in progress), I'm hoping to return in 10 years to see what's left of today and what tomorrow brings.

A Brief History of Oil, Wealth and People

2008-12-28T04:12:00.000-08:00

The U.A.E., once known as the "Pirate Coast," is filthy, stinkin' rich. Somehow, they managed to avoid having their homeland's resources raped by imperialist invaders (like so many other countries throughout history). Instead, they made a killing (and continue to do so) on the resource the Brits found underneath their land back in 1957. I guess those desert Bedouin are a pretty shrewd group. Being the smart guy he was, their President initiated plans to reinvest all those early earnings into the country's infrastructure and now they've branched out into any number of unrelated businesses to continue their growing dominance in world trade and commerce so they'll continue to be economically solvent - long after the oil is gone.

You may have heard of Dubai - and its incredible building boom (it's said - by someone, somewhere - that 70% of the world's cranes are in Dubai; which having been there: I wouldn't doubt). Looking at images of Dubai from before the oil, it's almost impossible to imagine how 45 years is enough time for the transformation. Here's a fascinating web sight (with lots of photos) about the building and the deeper ramifications of said boom.

Anyhow, I spent more time during my trip in the United Arab Emirates than anywhere else during my trip. It was the hub of my travels as I came and went throughout the region. Being in a country where (yes - really) less than 25% of the people are actually local citizens (the rest being expat workers from other countries - like the Philippines, Iran, Egypt, and wherever else...) I'm not even sure how many Emiratis I actually met or even talked to. The stores, hotels, restaurants... they all seem to be run (on the front end) by foreigners who moved to find a better income to send money home or make a new life... but they aren't citizens.

The immigration officals at the airports were Emirati - so I guess I did meet a "few."

Alone, New Friends, One Friend, A Cousin, The Whole Fam (or not), Good Friends

2008-12-27T03:32:00.001-08:00

[Note: this is a very long entry with lots of name dropping but not much travel info. You might want to skip it - depending on what you're looking for in a travel blog. Whatever suits you - just know that I know it's a hicup in the "flow" of the blog. Deal with it.]

It should be pretty obvious at this point, but I didn't have just one travel companion for this adventure. And frankly, that's probably a good thing. I do enjoy travelling alone (some people don't; I do). But I also enjoy travelling with people, but usually spending too much time with the same people can be dangerous.

So on this trip - I mixed it up quite a bit. And since people have repeatedly asked "Who did you go with?" (and before I left, "Who are you going with?") I figured I'd give it a go at detailing the varried companionships.

Yemen and Oman:
I went to both of these countries alone. At the time, I was quite happy (I'm a hermit) to be rid of all the craziness that comes from frequent and responsible relationships with people (my list of "to do's" in LA for work, friends, roommates, etc... was no longer fun or fulfilling, but rather just tiresome and frustrating). It was nice (for a while) to have no one to report to or do things for. It was a very quiet week and a half (3 days on planes, 3 days in Yemen, 3 days in Oman). But, I got to listen to my iPod (post on thit later) and see a lot of great places at my own pace in my own way).

Nepal:
As I've already indicated - Rachel, Hassan, and Ted joined me (or rather, I joined them) for the 4 day (+ 2 travel days) trip to the Kathmandu Valley. It was fun adding two strangers to the itinerary and great travelling with another Broadbent (since we "got" each other's travel styles, and such - or so it seemed to me).

Dubai and Abu Dhabi:
In January 2007, I joined Jen Birtcher and some of her wonderful friends on a trip to Kenya to build a school in a small remote village. I tried to get several of them to join me on this adventure (admittedly this was not as service oriented a venture, but they were good people - worth travelling with again). Unfortunatly (and fortunately) Jen Birtcher was the only one able to match my travel schedule. So, Jen and I spent 5 days "seeing" and living in the U.A.E (while Rachel graciously hosted us but went to work each day - leaving us to fend for ourselves: we're big kids and this suited us fine). Joshua and Melinda considered joining me, but my schedule didn't match theirs and so they actually beat me to U.A.E. by a month. Even so, they still deserve some print space in the blog!

Lebanon:
Rachel and I took a late night flight to Lebanon and had a couple days there (no Hassan or Ted this time). She had been there before (and not seen everything she wante dto see); therefore, she had list of "hot spots" worth hitting and frankly - that worked just fine for me. I know almost nothing about Lebanon, so having and "experienced guide" to take me to the Cedars AND "The Music Hall" suited me well. She had to get back to Abu Dhabi for work (people and their jobs: shaaa!), so I stayed a bit longer and saw some thing she saw on her first trip.

Abu Dhabi x 2:
After Jen went back to Kenya - where she now lives - I had a day to myself in Dubai. And when I returned after Lebanon - I had a day outside Abu Dhabi (visiting the camel traders, etc...). It was nice to have these 2 days to mix things up and relax before heading into yet more legs of the adventure.

Los Angeles:
I passed through LA en route to UT/ID. I think I was there for 20 hours. It seemed like most people had already taken off for the holidays (understandably so), but thankfully Brandon was around to pick me up at the airport and Amber and I got to see some Christmas lights before I packed up again and flew off for family Christmas fun. 20 hours is not long enough to switch modes from "summer heat and desert travels" to "cold snow and frostbite destination." So, my methodical plans to avoid the jet lag due to the 12 hour time shift were derailed by staying up all night prepping jpeg files for Rachel and the fam, doing laundry, and packing for yet more travel fun.

[Note: I didn't expect this to be a long and detailed a list of people and places, but I guess that's what I get for not realizing (before or after) how crazy long and intricate this whole thing was).]

UT/ID:
This year, we (the fam) decided to do Christmas in UT and ID (yes, both). The plan - fly to UT, do Christmas dinner with Catherine, Grant, Mom and Dad... then drive up to ID to bask in the leisure of the Lava Hot Springs with the whole Kearl clan (thus bringing Rachel back into the agenda yet again - ha ha). That was the plan, but snow closed the roads and eliminated the whole Lava part of the world tour.

So, as much as I wanted Gary, Mima, Rachel, Anna, Susan, David, Matthew, and Katie to have a place in the travel blog - this (this sentence) will suffice as their moment of fame and glory. The 5 of us stayed in UT and made SLC our vacation haven while the 6 of them dug their way out of the 17 feet of snow surrounding their house.

And the 5 other "Broadbents" (aka Snarrs) - Sara, Jeff, Hannah, Megan, and Ali - they too get "honorable mention" in the blog because - after all - it is Christmas and they're family too (even if travelling with three small kids from NY to ID just didn't fit the "holiday spirit" - understandably so).

California:
And finally - as I write this, this hasn't happened yet - I expect to enjoy my final week of vacation from the comfort of my own bed (or at least my own ThermaRest - since a camping trip is in the works): editing, cleaning, planning, camping, reading, watching TV, playing with friends, and who knows what else.

Maybe I'll do some of this alone (like Yemen and Oman).
Possibly with new friends (like Nepal).
Per chance with old friends (like U.A.E)
Or simply those I consider family (like UT or Lebanon) - or at least those I consider family (my 2nd family)...
And if I'm lucky - maybe I'll do some of it with those vying to be my future family.

Did I really say that? Really? Seriously? Oh come on - you know you're laghing; it's funny. And you never know. Really, you just never know. Trust me - I know about not knowing. And about not knowing often.

Travel, Work, Sleep

2008-12-25T06:01:00.000-08:00

Rachel and I went to Nepal with two of her co-workers. Ted and Hassan are working with her at Booz Allen Hamilton - doing consulting work for the governement (not the U.S. government... the Abu Dhabi government). Crazy world that the UAE brings in a team of Americans to revamp their workflow processes! Nevertheless, they do - and I'm glad they do, since it affords me the opportunity for a trip like this.

Anyhow, the four of us met up in Kathmandu and saw the sights. Odd thing about it - the three of them kept pulling out their laptops at night to work. Really. I'd go to bed after a long day of walking, buying, picture taking, and other exhausting travel "stuff" and they would dive in on Powerpoint and whatever else they "do." The hotels all had free wireless, so they were in (relatively speaking) heaven. How crazy is that? Go all the way to Nepal, to do a spreadsheet and/or revise a presentation on HR management expectations...

But again, no complaints here - but I was amazed at how little sleep Rachel got (yet survived on). She kept reminding me, "We're in Nepal... even though I have to work, I'm not going to miss out on this. I may never be back." And so we packed in 4 full days (and she added a few full nights as well). I suspect she's working through Christmas as well (in Idaho, nonetheless), but hopefully she'll get some sleep: since she barely got any while I was there.

Sure Why Not - Everest

2008-12-24T18:18:00.000-08:00

How did I end up going to Nepal and Lebanon?
The same way I ended up on plane flying over Everest!

Rachel suggested it and I said, "sure why not." On our last day in Nepal, prior to our 9 am departures,

planned departures that is - ask Rachel about how her 9 am flight became a 4:45 pm flight, and how it brought me the joys of clean laundry

we caught an early morning flight over the mountains of northeast Nepal.

The views were stunning and I can now say (according to the signed cirtificate I received from the flight crew) that "I didn't climb Everest, but I touched it with my heart."

The whole process involved a crazy-mad-rush against time, security, and domestic/international terminals separated by a 5 minute run (or a 1 minute taxi-ride - worth every penny).

Funerals

2008-12-24T17:47:00.000-08:00

Public cremation by this river may have been more appropriate in years gone by - when there was plenty of water flowing by to "accept" the remains of their relatives. But nowadays, the trickle of water running through Pashupatinath, leaves something to be desired in the realm of compete and sanitary disposal of... well... you know.

Pashupatinath is Nepal's most sacred Hindu sight and apparently the "best" place to be creamated, should you have the means. Serendipitously (depending on your point of view), we arrived at this temple as several families prepared to say their "last good-byes" - and without gwaking, we had a glimpse into their customs and traditions.

Facinating - but we both agreed: we won't be burning our relatives (not directly anyhow).

What Is This Stuff?

2008-12-24T17:35:00.000-08:00

So what to do in and around Kathmandu? Walking tours. There are temples (Buddist, Hindu, and probably others) on nearly every corner. Some are little more than a statue in an alcove, and others are little less than massive undertakings that words and pictures really can't do justice: Stupa, Stupa, Stupa.

Either way - there's tons to see. Frankly, I don't know what any of it "means" but it's beautiful and stunning in its variety and grandeur. It's really cool, too, to see the central point that many of these sights still play in the everyday life of the people here. They're not just "historical sights." Most of the sights are still in use.

Where Am I?

2008-12-24T17:17:00.000-08:00

Ignoring the international visitors (mostly from Europe), I'm left wondering if I'm in China or India... Nepal, straddling the border between the two, is a mix of both cultures. Tibet to the North and India to the south, there's buddist and hindu temples at every corner. Being so far from anywhere, the past is everywhere - interwoved into the slowly modernizing present. It's an amazing collection of colors, sounds and sights.

In our limited time here, we barely got away from the Kathmandu Valley. But, with the 4 days we did have - it was just enough to "see" everything worth seeing. But, I could sooooo come to Nepal again to check out other parts of the country. We barely got 40 km from city center, and the country has so much to offer those willing to venture away from Thamel's hippie culture and tourist lifestyle.

Hippie Street

2008-12-24T17:04:00.000-08:00

For reals... There is a street in Kathmandu called "Hippie Street." That should give you some impression of who had (in the 1970s) the strongest effect on the tourism business here. Things have changed over the years, but there's still a strong feeling of post hippie-hippiedom.

In many ways, Rachel and I don't "fit in" here... Actually, come to think of it: everyone fits in here. But, it is interesting to see who (from the West) has decided to hide-away in Kathmandu. There are the real new-age hippies, the middle-aged tourists, the "I'm hiding from real life" twenty something croud, the hikers and trekers, and us.

Hot or Not?

2008-12-21T02:46:00.000-08:00

As I recall - in America (The United States thereof, that is) men beep their horns at beautiful women. At least, that's how it works in the movies (especially honking at women they've never met and somehow expecting that obnoxious 120 dB F# to woo her into a long term relationship (or at least a one night stand). If only life were like the movies.

Anyhow, I digress. Thing is - here in (pick your country: Nepal, Oman, AUE, Yemen, and especially - Lebanon) I keep getting honked at. I'm starting to know what it must feel like to be a beautiful woman. Oh wait - strike that. I digress.

Am I hot... or not? I'm guessing "not."

Here's the deal - I must look like a guy who needs a ride (probably something about the fair skin, the goofy backpack, the hiking shoes, and the mildly lost glaze across my face. So... every taxi driver honks as he passes hoping I'll dump an inordinate amount of money into his retirement fund for driving me .25 miles up the road to the next landmark.

It took me a while, but I've finally mastered what it seems ever woman I've ever honked at seems to have mastered: the... "ignore the honks because they don't actually know you or offer anything you want" look. In other words, I keep walking and avoid the urge to turn and examine all loud noises.

Granted, this can be mildly problematic when the military guards are blowing whistles at me to indicate I ought to stop whatever I'm doing (taking a photo for instance). At these times - paying attention to the loud noises might be in order. Foreign travel - everyday a new negotiation.

PS It would be cool if beautiful women would look at me even when I'm not honking at them. I'm just sayin'.

Sweet Suites

2008-12-18T01:20:00.000-08:00

While travelling, I have stayed in a variety of "levels"of accomodations. Time with Rachel seems to lean heavily toward "high end" (thanks to the generous contributions of her employer towards her general comfort while "living" abroad). Time spent travelling alone (Yemen, for instace) lean toward the bottom end (thanks to the limited funds of my personal bank account and my generally low maitainence demands as a cheapskate traveler (same standards actually applied in Nepal - with Rachel - we're both frugal meisters in that respect).

Anyhow, I've certainly shot a plethora of photos (digital cameras make it far too easy to "just shoot one more") over the ensuing weeks, and I'll eventually sort through them and post SOME of them. I'm past 1,500 so you really don't want to see them all anyway.

In the mean time, I thought these two videos would be mildly entertaining and show the contrast of options in accomodations.

My Hotel in Yemen

Our Hotel in UAE

Sure, Why Not?

2008-12-17T10:57:00.000-08:00

When I planned (and I use that word loosely) this trip, I didn't really have many specifics in mind. I only knew that I had an invite for a place to stay in UAE and a cousin ready to welcome me point me in the right directions to find entertaining and enlightening adventures.

As the plans developed, and I arranged time off - Rachel mentioned he was interested in leaving UAE during the time I was planning to be there... and how convenient... she wanted to leave to see places I too wanted to see. So, when rachel asked, "Do you want to go to Nepal?" I said - "Sure, why not?" And when she mentioned Lebanon, I echoed, "Sure, why not."

So, the trip of UAE, Yemen and Oman - expanded to include Nepal and Lebanon. I really didn't know what I was doing on the front end - except that I wanted to travel for about a month and UAE would be home base. I had considered Thailand and some other destintations - but that's the basics of how the trip developed.

I'm a "Yes" guy - and that often casues me trouble, but in this case - it was a perfect situation. Ask me if I want to travel somewhere, and chance are... the answer is "sure, why not."

Sweet Suite

2008-12-17T10:45:00.001-08:00

I finally found Rachel. Or rather, she found me. She arrived the next night and we settled into a suite before heading off for a early morning flight to Nepal. However, I still had a bag filled with 9 days of dirty laundry and nothing suitable for the flight (of course, knowing now what I do about the smell in the coach section of a flight to Nepal - it seems I did have clothes suitable for the flight, but at the time - this didn't seem to be the case).

Anyhow, I was elated to find that our suite had a washer dryer included: a true luxury by current standards, it seems. Granted, it may have been the smallest washer/dryer ever, but it was enough to wash some vital items from my bag - leaving the rest to be dealt with down the road.

If you can't solve it today - put it off till tomorrow!

Anyhow, we were only in that suite for 6 hours, but it was enough time to sleep for a few moments and - get the laundry done.

People Ride Buses

2008-12-17T10:16:00.000-08:00

Today, a man in LA rode a bus.
Today, a woman in Russia rode a bus.
Today, a kid in Oman rode a bus.
Today, I rode a bus in UAE.

As I looked around at my fellow passengers I remember thinking, "What's so different about these people - so different that so many in the US think they're all 'twisted, different, or potentially dangerous or evil' (you know - being middle eastern Muslims)?"

Oh sure, there were a few uni-brows, dark mustaches... and a few of the wen were wearing dresses (kanduras) but what does that have to do with anything? Nothing.

Dresses and bad-hair asside - these were average, everyday people going about average everday lives... Or so it seemed to me. As 9/11 made clear, but as it seems still continues, there are a lot of misconceptions about Islam and people from the middle east. Travelling in Yemen, Oman, and UAE - I've met mostly genuine people with general good will in mind (except that guy who ripped me off in Yemen and the taxi drivers who simply wont tell me where to catch a bus).

Anyhow, my point: travel the world, meet a few people - then disregard all those language, culture, religion, family, economic, race, gender classifications we've created to rate, segregate, stereotype the world. They're usually overly superficial, and likely misleading and biased. Granted, I'm biased too - but I'm feeling soap-boxy, so there you go.

Shoe Golf and our President

2008-12-17T10:07:00.000-08:00

In 1988 Lee Russell and I played shoe golf during lunch (more than once). We would wander outside and set up a course... then attempt to kick our shoes from "hole" to "hole" by launching them in parabolic arcs into the air.

I'm left wondering if Lee has since defected to Iraq and become and international journalist... specializing in shoe baseball?

I've been seeing and reading reports of that recent journalists' Press-Room-Rage. But, I'm learning about it throught he filter of the midle east perspective. Although I have yet to meet anyone overtly opposed to Americans or The United States... there are plenty happily congratulating me on our upcoming change in leadership. They're all quite happy to see Bush go, and apparently giddy with anticipation of what Omaba will bring to the world scene!

Also, I've been hearing (from Jen) how exstatic the Kenyans are our our new US president from Kenya. Seriously? Wow - I think some people need a little ejukatin! Even so, I'm guessing there are a few Americans that could also use a does of "seriously - do you know anything about international politics or cultures?"

Another Missed "Connection"

2008-12-16T14:34:00.000-08:00

So, I arrived in Dubai a day late to catch my flight to Yemen, right?

Well, I arrived in Abu Dhabi a day early to meet up with my cousin Rachel. So far, I'm not doing so well on proving my scheduling abilities!

Turns out she was driving to the DC airport in the US as I was landing in the Abu Dhabi Airport in the UAE (where she's been living for the last year). I thought she was arriving a day before me (but, as should be pretty obvious, she actually arrived a day after me).

Man oh man, those taxi drivers at the airport were all over me. They soooooo wanted to take me somewhere... I just didn't know where to have them take me (and frankly, I didn't want to pay them when I knew there was a bus that would do just as well at 1/10 the price). If only I knew where to go.

After an hour fighting the pay phone and various international call restrictions I finally figured out where Rachel was (not in UAE) and that (unexpectedly) I needed o fend for myself for a good night's rest (at was already 11pm).

I started calling local hotels and finally found myself a bed. Ahh - sweet sleep. A guady hotel in the downtown Abu Dhabi area - "near" the fish market, but really in the middle of nowhere. But really - by the time I go there (1:30 am) I didn't really care where it was, I was just happy to have a bed, and laughing at the absurdity of flying around the world to meet up with my cousin (planning it a month in advance) and still messing it up. Ha ha ha.

More on UEA (and Nepal, and Dubai, and more) later.

Now, it's time for some sleep and hopefully another wonderous day as the adventure continues. Computer time is something I'm finding hard to "fit in" to the schedule, but I'll do what I can. And yowsers, have I taken a "few" photos. I'll deal with them later.

Oman

2008-12-16T14:26:00.000-08:00

Muscat Oman was a wonderful surprise for me on this trip. Going, I really hadn't given much thought as to why. I just thought "hey, I'm here - it's here... I'll go."

Turns out, Muscat satsfied the adventurer, pirate, cartographer, ameteur history buff, and nature hiker in me. In almost everyway, it was NOT what I expected. But then again, realy: I had no idea what to expect.

Omani's have forts - everywhere. I'd say that they mastered the fort building of the Arab world (historians might differ on that assessment, but that how I feel after 3 days in their fine capitol city).

I hit several museums, and regretfully admit that I also had 1 McDonalds chicken sandwich while walking the streets (I was hungry - and Oman is not cheap). I've avoided McDonalds and other fast food as much as posible, but it happens from time to time. There are some travelers that seek out such "comfort foods" but I shy away as much as possible, opting for the local fare.

Ironically, I ended up at one restaurant (the day after that MD run), a restaurant suggested in Lonely Planet (also the only restaurant within a squeare mile) and found myself surrounded by Europeans (also following the Lonely Planet walking tour). I couldn't help but laugh at the absurdity of it. Here was are, all trying to get an authentic experience (avoiding the fast food and option for local cuisine) and we all end up eating with other tourists.

Didn't change the fact that the food was fummy and the atmosphere engaging. Also, in addition to us Yanks, Gringos and Brits.... there were a fair number of locals as well. But I couldn't help but wonder if they're happy or sad that their favorite local dive is now tops on the Lonely Planet list?!

OK, OK, OK

2008-12-16T14:23:00.000-08:00

That's 3 "OK";s

1) I'm OK. I'm alive. I've not been captured by terrorists, arrested by over-eager border guards or kidnapped by a cab-driver. Life is good and the adventure continues!

2) OK, I know I "promised" some travel-logs and I've done little to satisfy that expectation.

3) OK, seriously - did you think I'd have time to dilly-dally at a computer while trying to fit in so much in so little time?

Got Qat?

2008-12-07T02:10:00.000-08:00

Did I say the Yemani people were industrious, clever, dedicated, and hard working? They were. Today, en masse - the entire population seems destined to a life of idleness and drug abuse. I'm only sort of exagerating.

In my preivious post, I mented terraced farming and the amazing techniques the ancient Yemeni people devised to grow their crops. One of the main crops was coffee. Fair enough, it's been around for ages and a great cash crop for many countries throughout the world.

In recent years though, coffee has been found less profitable than "Qat." What is Qat and why is it more profitable? Well - it's a mild narcotic and it seems that 70% of the population chews it. And when I say "chews it" - any MLB player's chewing habit pales comparison. They start (daily) at 1pm and chew for 5+ hours (one little leaf at a time. Chip and Dale have nothing on the average male member of Yemeni society's puffy cheeks.

I found this photo online, but this was a common site every day, everywhere. Even the military guards at the check points had mouthfulls of chewed leaves (and 3 hour old syliva). Yuck.

Point is - 70%+ of men chew it; 70%+ of the Yemeni water supply goes to growing it;70%+ of the work day is spent chewing it; and I don't know for sure, but it seems like 70%+ of one's annual salary goes to buying it.

Without going into a deep political tirate about social issues... this experience solidified my belief that legalizing drugs is NOT the answer. Qat is completely legal in Yemen. Legalized drug use isn't the solution to the druig problems we face in the US (or elsewhere).

Sometimes it's good (even appropriate) to say, as a society, that something is inappropriate (what we do when we say something is illegal) - even if a lot of people like doing it... for the sake of society as a whole.

Yemen - Where it all started

2008-12-07T02:01:00.001-08:00

Years ago, I visited Israel, Jordan and Egypt. At the time, I remember thinking "Ah so this is how it 'used to be' in teh old days." (or something like that). We wandered the "old city" in Jerusalem, and visited "tell" after "tell" (an archeological ruin of a once-trhiving villiage.

Now enter Yemen. They too have an old city, and a few ruins as well, but more than that - they have villiage after villiage built 1000s of years ago - still inhabited by people (many living something close to their traditional lifestyles). Sadly (or gladly, depending on your point of view) that has started to change, but only in the last 25 years.

And so, as we visited the countryisde around Sana'a (the capitol) the sights and soughts were awesome (and I don't mean that in a surfer's "awesome" way - but really - I was in awe). The Yemeni people 1000+ years ago terraces entire mountains. They found/made ways to grow crops anywhere and everywhere. Looking out over the mountains it was (really) a jaw-dropping moment (one after another).

In just the last few decades, these terraces that lasted generation after generation have bengun to deteriourate (as the people migrate en-mass to Sana'a and other large cities), but what they've left behind isn't a "tell" yet (so it's much easier to see and understand).

But more than just their fields, they figured out amazing ways to build in the desert and find water and survive in such an inhospitable environment. 1000s of years, and no options - you do what you gotta do.

Much of the landscape reminded me of Moab or the Grand Canyon. And trust me - what they did in the ensuing years was nothing like Havasupai or a camp site at Arhces. 8 story buildings made of rocks... built at the highest points... to protect against invaders. On one hand, I kept saying "Who would decide to live here?" On the other hand, I kept asking "How could anyone live here?"

These were amzingly hard working, industrious, and dedicated people.

Where to begin - lundry Perhaps?

2008-12-07T01:52:00.000-08:00

I feel like I could write volumes at this point. Oman was fantastic, but I still haven't even written up Yemen yet, and the adventures of the last 2 days here in UAE make for laugh upon laugh.

Rachel, my dad, Anna, and a slew of other people ahve been trying to find me (and I've been trying to find them) for a day or so. It's incredible how being "disconnected" can backfire when all you really want (in the moment) is to connect! Oops. Limited internet in Oman and a desire to pack every spare moment and well... what do you know... I lost Rachel.

With any luck, we'll meet up this evening and we're heading to Nepal tomorrow. Crazy life I live!?

FYI - laundry is not easily "done" in Abu Dhabi (you know - just in case you ever try). And frankly, I've been "aiming" for today as "Laundry Day." So, although I still smell pretty today, you might not want to be near me (on the flight, nonetheless) tomorrow. Wish me (and my seat-mates) luck!

You see - there just are not laundry mats (sp). They just don't exist (at least not near where I am). Instead, there are TONS of little stores that will wash items of clothing (as long as you're willing to give them 10 hours and a crazy amount of cahs). 3 shirts, 3 pants, and all my underwear: $18.

Oh sure, I could wash it and hang it in my hotel, but I have to check out long before it would be dry, and who wants moldy clothes in Nepal? Not me.

Anyhow, this is supposed to be funny, but it probably just comes accross like yet another "rookie mistake." I don't count it as such, but dang... seriously people: someon could make a killing by opening a launrdy mat. Get rich scheme, here I come: I'm moving to Abu Dhabi and opening a laundry mat!

Rookie Mistakes

2008-12-02T07:37:00.000-08:00

Someone ones told me I focus on the bad side of things. Not really - I just think they make for better stories. So, a few "bad" things of note from the first 3-5 days (depending on how many "days" of travel there were).

1) I booked the wrong flight
2) I left several overpriced gifts from a street vendor in my guide's car yesterday (sorry)
3) I brought hand sanitizer, but neglected to use it (I have a cold - and I'm blaming it on one of numerous handshakes)
4) I mistook a Canadian for an American (but, really - who hasn't done that?)
5) I left my Lonely Planet travel guide book in my guide's car today (alas, two different guides; two different cars)
6) I left my dental bite guard in Los Angeles (yes, I have a bit guard). Hopefully my teeth wont start looking like Yemeni teeth before I can get home and use it again!

Years ago, on a trip to Mexico, my travel companions and I started calling such errors "rookie mistakes" - you know: the kind of thing only an un-seasoned traveler would do. Oh well, what can I say - I'm not unseasoned, but apparently I'm out of practice.

The cool thing about it - it all works out in the end.

Safer than West Los Angeles

2008-12-02T07:20:00.000-08:00

OK, first off - Yemen: visit.

Before I left, a friend told me that Yemen was one of two places in the whole world he wouldn't visit: for safety reasons. Well, having walked Sana'a multiple times and various times of day, and having spent two full days touring the countryside outside it's walls... I must say, I feel safer here than in many parts of Los Angeles, and certainly safer than many other cities int he world.

I'm not even kidding. I've been more concerned about my surroundings walking home from Kelly's house at 10:30 pm than I am in the Old City here in Sana'a at any hour. Perhaps the same can't be said for downtown Pittsford, but still - it puts things in perspective.

Oh sure, there are a few men with automatic rifles wandering the streets and the occasional bombing, but really - what are the odds? Now, I'll admit, when people ask me where I'm from - I say "California." Yes, they're all smart enough to know that's in the United States... but as yet, not one person I've met actually has any problems with the United States. They all seem to like it. A few have expressed excitement over our new president elect, but otherwise - even politically speaking - Yemen is safe and worth putting on your "to do before I die" list (if you like world travel, new foods, and adventure).

Internation "Date Line"

2008-11-29T09:44:00.000-08:00

OK, laugh with me - the actual internation date "line" is somewhere near Alaska or Tahiti, but when you hop on a 15 hour flight, you might as well assume there's a date change (espcially if you're heading east). Well, it turns out my flight to Yemen left without me - 14 hours before I landed. Ooops. And I thought I was being all "good" keeping track of such things. Are we laughing yet!?. Doh!

Oh well. Frankly, this is the part of international travel that I love - the renegotiating plans en route. A small "cancellation fee" and booking a diffent flight with a different airline and I should have it all worked out.

Perhaps it's the travel gods trying to tell me not to go to Yemen. I'm not listening.

On another note, my email doesn't seem to work (today, at this moment, in this internet cafe) - so, well... yeah... I guess that's the email gods telling me to leave you and your mesages behind and enjoy myself.

For the moment, I think I'll listen to theses gods.

UAE or Bust

2008-11-27T19:50:00.000-08:00

It all started with my cousin Rachel. (Actually it "all started" back when I was 13 and I started flying from one place to another. Ever since, I just can't seem to get enough of international destinations.) Anyhow, Rachel...

She currently lives just south of Dubai and she offered me a place to stay if I felt like exploring Dubai and the rest of the UAE. Well, one thing led to another and I've decided that "the rest of the UAE" wasn't a big enough trip. So, although UAE is "home base" for the next month, I'll be taking a collection of side trips to locations in the "vicinity":

Muscat, Oman
Sana'a, Yemen
Beirut, Lebanon
Katmandu, Nepal (ok, we're using a very broad definition of "vicinity")
Dubai and Abu Dhabi, UAE

And just for good luck, let's throw in Salt Lake CIty Utah, Pocatello Idaho, and the Lava Hot Springs for good measure.

I know some of you (even though you've actually clicked through to this link) have little interest in following such a crazy trip. I'm offended. Not really, it's actually completely fine either way!

I'm actually quite surprised, though, at the number of people who have asked that I do just this: keep the ivagabond travel blog up-to-date. I suspect internet will be sparse at times and easily found at others, but - for my blurking friends - I'll do what I can (with limited time and resources) to update this.

And for Erik... Yes, I'll take a few snapshots.

But for now, I just need to finish packing before my brain shuts down. 2008 has been a uniquely "taxing" (for lack of a better word) year, and I'm looking forward to (if nothing else) 15 hours on an airplane to debrief, and then several weeks of newness. As I told Jared months ago when I started thinking about this trip, "travel is something that I constantly look forward to. I guess it's my release."

Here's to release time.

A Few Thoughts on Proposition 8

2008-10-18T22:40:00.000-07:00

Normally, I use this blog solely for travel updates. However, since I haven't been on any trips lately, there has been nothing to write about. Today, I feel like posting some thoughts which I hope will travel far and wide (even if I don't). So, for anyone wishing I'd update my blog more often - this is for you!

dave

Family, Friends, Co-workers, Travel Buddies, Future Girlfriends (with luck), and everyone else (even a couple X-Girlfriends),

As the November election draws near, I feel impressed to share some thoughts regarding an item on the California ballot. On November 4, California voters will vote on Proposition 8 - a proposal potentially amending our state constitution to define marriage with the following words, "Only marriage between a man and a woman is valid or recognized in California."

First - excuse me if this message reaches you after far too long a silence. If nothing else, take it as evidence that I value our past association and hope for continued contact with you (most of you, anyhow). Second - excuse me if you already saw this when I posted it online. If nothing else, take this repeat presentation as evidence that I really care - but know that this is not the beginning of a spam-campaign on my part; one notably long email on this matter will suffice.

It is with some trepidation that I reach out so broadly on a matter that elicits such a strong emotional response. Feelings about this measure (for and against) are extreme because of how it personally touches so many lives - we all have people whom we love and/or respect who are gay. Some feel that Proposition 8 is designed to take something away from them. This is not true. California domestic partnership laws already provide gay partners the same legal rights as traditional married couples (FAMILY.CODE SECTION 297-297.5) and Proposition 8 does nothing to change or curtail these rights.

Eight years ago, a 61% majority of California voters passed Proposition 22, which clearly defined marriage for Californians as "between a man and a woman." Earlier this year, the California Supreme Court ruled that law unconstitutional (in a 4-3 split decision: a margin of 1 judiciary) thereby legalizing same sex marriage. Proposition 8, which uses identical wording as Proposition 22, will let California voters "overrule" the California Supreme Court by amending the California State Constitution to yet again define marriage in California as "between a man and a woman."

There are many good reason to support Proposition 8 as well as strong arguments against it. Having contemplated the merits of both sides, I support efforts to pass the proposition. Here are some of the reasons I will be voting "Yes" on Proposition 8:

Marriage Concerns More than Just the Couple
If marriage only concerned the couple getting married, then by all means: let anyone call their union a "marriage." But, marriage is about more than just the couple being wed. It is also about the lives that those two people can help create (their children) and the society in which they live. For its ability to create and nurture life, bind generations together, and provide an anchor to society - I believe marriage is a divine institution that should not be changed. It concerns far too many people beyond just the two being wed.

Children's Inherent Rights
Throughout the ages, marriage has signified the formal acknowledgement of two people's commitment to each other and the expectation that - within that setting of commitment and love - children will be born and raised. I believe that every child has an inherent right to know, have a loving relationship with, and be raised by the two parents whose biological union led to its creation. Children raised in loving two-parent homes have the highest chances for emotional, physical and psychological success. I also believe that such children are better prepared to enter healthy family relationships and become better parents themselves.

In light of this, I believe that it is every child's inherent birthright to be raised in a loving family, ideally by the parents whose union actually created it. Various factors may deny some children the benefit of being raised in such a traditional family. Adoption provides an excellent alternative to deal with these factors. But these exceptions do not change the data, nor the strength of the argument that every child has a right to expect a mother and a father. Marriage is the only institution that attempts to protect this right for future generations.

Same gender coupling fundamentally breaks with this definition of marriage because it lacks the potential for offspring. True, they may adopt children or bring them from a previous relationship (and such may indeed be the best option for specific children - when all factors are considered). But any family configuration built on anything less than a mother and a father ought not be called by the same name as the the heterosexual coupling that produces a child in the first place. Therefore, it should not be called "marriage."

In such a redefinition of marriage, children are ultimately an afterthought, not the focus of the union. Their needs are subordinated to the desires of the adults who choose a lifestyle that cannot provide for the children's full inherent rights (however diligent and loving those parents may otherwise be and regardless of why they chose that lifestyle).

A Couple's Rights
I am not saying that two people (of any gender) who want to make a legally binding commitment to each other should not be able to do so. Making and keeping lasting, worthwhile commitments is a good thing. All Californians currently have this right and Prop 8 does nothing to change it. Nor am I saying that same-gender couples should not be afforded the same legal rights as traditional couples (for over a decade, California has been forefront in ensuring that they do).

What I am saying is that these (and any other new family configurations) should not be called "marriages" because that's simply not what they are. They may contain some components of marriage (e.g. love, commitment, passion), but they do not contain all the pieces. They can not lead to children, they can not create links between generations along genealogical lines, and they can not generate the family units that have long been the basis of stable society.

Certainly, I recognize that not all heterosexual marriages will lead to these results (either by choice or circumstance), but they can. Same gender unions can not. To call these new relationships "marriages" not only creates confusion by suggesting that they are the same. It also cheapens the long extant institution of traditional marriage by placing it on an equal standing with an unequal substitute - one that is based primarily on the desires of the two people pursuing it, rather than the rights of future children and their place in society.

While the lives of tens or even hundreds of thousands of same-gender couples in California may be impacted if Prop 8 passes, the lives of millions of future Californians will be impacted if it fails. These future children deserve every chance we can give them to being raised in an environment of love by their own two biological parents. Admittedly, not all of them will get it - but if we don't protect the only institution designed to provide it, then we will undoubtedly see fewer and fewer children enjoying it. Ultimately, it will be the rising generation that will bear the full cost.

I welcome the chance to discuss this is greater depth. Please let me know.

Sincerely,
Dave Broadbent
Los Angeles, CA

To those who are undecided about Proposition 8
This message is primarily intended for you. As you study the matter, I wanted to share with you the following materials which I have found helpful:

S147999 - In re MARRIAGE CASES
The California Supreme Court ruling from May 2008 which legalized same-sex marriage. I found the dissenting opinions (page 128 and 154) quite solid.

ProtectMarriage.com
The website of the coalition sponsoring Proposition 8, which includes FAQs, Myths, and Facts.

Protecting Marriage to Protect Children
LA Times Opinion piece

Prop. 8 protects rights of those who support traditional marriage
San Francisco Chronicle Open Forum Submission

WhatIsProp8.com
An independent web site highlighting some of the benefits and ways of supporting Prop 8.

Marriage Facts
An attempt to summarize the legal arguments on both sides of the same sex marriage debate, as they have been presented in various courts of law.

Upholding the Constitution
An obviously strong opinion-piece that touches on some of the potential, yet not-so-obvious, constitutional issues at stake.

To those who support Prop 8
Get involved. I am encouraged to see so many already speaking out on this matter. If you haven't already done so, visit ProtectMarriage.com to learn how you can participate or let me know and I'll point you in the right direction. Also consider making a financial contribution(or an additional contribution- if possible) and mostly: reach out to everyone you can through whatever means suit you. If you do an e-mail like this, be sure to copy me. And above all else - when advocating traditional marriage, be respectful of other people's feelings and opinions. Reject any statement (from either side) that has even a trace of bigotry or insensitivity. Respect the deeply felt convictions of those who oppose Proposition 8 (many whose lives have been shaped by desires that many of us don't have or feel).

To those who oppose Prop 8
I expect that some of you hold an opposing view. I respect that and I hope you'll do likewise. I hear too much of people lowering themselves to slandering, name calling, threats, and a myriad of other demeaning acts. That is below us. Or at least I hope it is below you: those I choose to call my friends.

If this message offends or upsets you, I apologize. Please keep in mind that there are people who support Prop 8 who are thoughtful, sensitive, reasonable, and who feel compassion for those whose lives will be impacted by this. I hope you will respect those on the "yes" side by seeing the honest intent behind our motives (and not let the distasteful actions or arguments of a few color your perception of everyone on the "yes" side of the issue). Don't perceive bigotry or impute ill-will where none is intended.

To those living outside of California
As California is the most populous state in the country (more than one in ten Americans lives here), and as California does not have a residency requirement for receiving a marriage license, what happens here is sure to have nation-wide implications. Consider what support you might give to the campaign from wherever you are, including financial contributions and/or - better yet - simply reaching out and sharing your personal views on the matter with people you know who live in California.

Compilation Video

2008-02-07T22:52:00.000-08:00

Wow, instead of writing everything up, I should have just made a video of all my photos. Luckily, Joshua Bruce, one of my fellow servants did so with his many vids and photos. This pretty much shows it all.

In addition to his video, all my videos and photos are also viewable here. The whole collection is there, but I've also made a few "highlights" albums to speed of the browsing process. Look at whatever interests you!

Enjoy!

The Front Fell Off

2008-02-07T08:19:00.000-08:00

I think I mentioned that I traveled with 8 other people (7 of whom I'd never met). One of the cool things about meeting new people is being introduced to new things, and well... I was introduced to my new favorite Podcast The Best of YouTube. Ok, truth is - I haven't watched it yet (aside from the one video Joshua and Melinda showed me on the bus-ride from Nairobi to Machakos). Thereafter, it became the quotable for the whole week.

This is "An Australian spoof interview from the early 90's.. an oil spill occurred off the coast of Western Australia due to the front of the boat falling off. Senator Bob Collins is played by John Clarke and the interviewer is Bryan Dawe."*

Another site I was led to by my travelling companion Joanne is like unto my favorite spam confirmation site: snopes.com. She prefers truthorficiton.com. I guess it matters which you use - just use one of them, and stop forwarding me emails about Bill Gates wanted to give me $100 for my email address - or little Betsy and her fight with cancer (since she's no longer little or fighting cancer).

Funny how 9,682 miles from home (and technology) things like that come up. I guess we're not all that different after-all.

Never Forget? Will they remember me?

2008-02-07T03:17:00.000-08:00

On our way out of Nairobi, we stopped at the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust. Here, they take elephants left in the wild (orphaned for one reason or another) and raise them - hoping to return them once they are old enough to fend for themselves.

Ranging in age from a couple months to a couple years - the elephants are available daily for one hour to watch, pet, and generally gawk at. The center is always willing to take donations (surprised?) and you can even "adopt" an elephant for a mere $25. It might be worth it - if you're heading to Nairobi (and you like elephants). If you're the "parent" you can arrange a one-on-one visit and you'll be able to feed your elephant during your visit. Plus, hey - who wouldn't want to be a foster parent to an orphaned elephant?

So yeah, I guess this shouldn't be a surprise, but there was plenty of wildlife on this trip (dur - it's Africa). As for the elephants, as you can see in the video, no one was really quite sure how to predict them. You gotta be on your toes with them, unless you want them on your toes. Ouch.

They guys in green are the trainers (there's probably a better wor d than "trainer" - maybe "keeper?" Since they're not training them per-se), and the elephants get really "attached" to them. Raising elephants is no easy task. They have 2 or 3 trainers per elephant and no elephant is ever alone. They even sleep with their trainers. True foster parenting!

They eat (among other things) insects from the dirt. Who'd-a-thunk it? What about peanuts? And the milk? 3-gallons, twice a day... I think. My memory isn't on par with an elephant, and it's been 2 weeks, so maybe my details are a bit fuzzy.

Speaking of elephant memory. It's true, they don't forget. Some have recognized their trainers years later. And they're very emotional animals. There are several reasons each elephant has multiple trainers:
1) Not only does the trainer need time off - you know, to do laundry, and send emails; but
2) If the elephant only had one trainer and it was sick or otherwise unable to work - the elephant would react emotionally to the loss. Having multiple trainers helps the elephants not be too attached to any one person too much, and they can rotate as necessary. Cool, eh?

The rest of the elephant videos are here.

Gorilla Safety

2008-02-07T02:43:00.000-08:00

Before trekking into the wilderness to follow a family of gorillas, it's probably a good idea to learn how to avoid irritating them. This is how:

Notice the gun in the background. Yeah, just in case... Oh, and to fend off poachers. Plus, if you're paying as much as we did for the experience, there ought to be guns involved!

The gorillas were amazing, huge, peaceful, cute, strong, playful, etc... You know - your average primate family! Assuming you want to see a video - I picked this one of two children/babies playing in the trees:

There is another post about this experience here. And the rest of the gorilla videos are online with all the other stuff on my server.

Slippery When Wet

2008-02-07T02:35:00.000-08:00

Motorcycles are cool. Period.

So, when Jen noticed the best taxi's in Kigali were motorcycles, we couldn't resist. Granted, there's probably someone somewhere saying, "those roads look slippery" and I'm happy to say "we never found out for certain." We rode said moto-taxis twice while in Kigali and loved it both times.

I suppose it doesn't really work with luggage, but there were plenty of times when we'd stash our things at the hostel/hotel. That gave us freedom to walk, run, ride, skip... whatever.

VOD: Why read a book?

2008-02-07T02:18:00.000-08:00

Is is me, or is the person in front of me reading a book? OK, I suppose that's allowed (but only because the entertainment system's VOD (Video on Demand) hasn't been turned on yet.

This may not be a big deal to all my international traveling friends, but things have changed in the world of in-flight-entertainment since I last flew abroad (or maybe it's just because these were MUCH longer flights. Anyhow, point is - instead of just giving you 10 movies to pick from, and insisting that you watch your selection at the same time as everyone else on the plane... Our flights had mini-individual-TiVo-esue units for every passenger. I think there were 200 program choices and we were able to pause, rewind, restart at will. Pause live TV is now right there in the seat-back in front of you!

Now, lest you think my brain turned to mush watching 18 hours of TV and movies - I will admit that I read some on the plane as well (so I suppose I'll let my fellow passenger off for doing likewise). Of course, my book was about Rwanda, which when added to in-flight versions of The Last King of Scotland and Blood Diamond. Actually - maybe my brain did turn to mush: too much media-style tellings of strife on the African continent.

To balance it all out - I watched Sliding Doors on the way home. See - I have a sensitive side!

Ooops, did I just admit that?

Rwanda and that Hotel

2008-02-05T06:44:00.000-08:00

Moments before leaving LA, I considered all the time I'd have on the various flights and decided to bring some "light"reading for the trip. One book I bought was An Ordinary Man. I was heading to Rwanda after-all... and a book about their past seemed like good reading (this book - not actually "light" - is the first-hand account of the Hôtel des Mille Collines... or Hotel Rwanda).

Granted, I was also heading to Kenya, which was having it's own current-day mini-version of Rwanda's troubles from 1994. Needless to say, the book got me mildly anxious - wondering if Kenya was heading down the same genocidal path of its neighbor (what do I know?).

In Rwanda, they've come a long way since 1994. We visited the Hotel Rwanda and a genocide museum and talked with people first-hand about the experiences they went through. The end result of their tragedy is a keen awareness of how destructive racial & class distinctions can be (were) - when bred, believed and left to fester. My impression (during my short visit) is that they learned (albeit the hard way) something a large number of people still have yet to learn... Hopefully the learning process won't be so hard for everyone else.

Enough on that... Rwanda was incredible (and not just for the politics lesson and the gorillas). The landscapes are lush and green, and nothing like I was expecting. Overall, I'd say Kenya and Rwanda were both greener than expected (and I didn't even bring a rain coat on the trip - big mistake).

Gorillas in the Mist

2008-02-05T04:56:00.000-08:00

Gorillas in the Mist (1988) tells the story of Dian Fossey and her time spent studying and living among the Gorillas of Rwanda. I saw it 10 or 15 years ago... But I lived it (kind of) 10 or 15 days ago. After a short layover in Nairobi, our first stop in Africa was Ruhengeri, Rwanda - to hike with the Gorillas (yes mom - this is safe).

The Rwandans strictly limit how many visitors get this opportunity (by charging notable fees, leading only small-group visits, and limiting tourist-interactions to exactly one-hour-per-day). They even place 24-hour armed-guards on the mountain to fend off potential poachers. They're serious about safety (of the gorillas and - thankfully - the visitors).

Travel Companion (and owner of said Nikon D-40) put together a great slideshow of her best images/videos from the day.

I posted a second post about this experience - here.
And all the photos and videos from the trip are - here here.

Here's how it works...

We (our small group: 7 Americans, 2 guides, 2 guards with rifles, and a guy with a machete - who also carried Sara's back-pac) hiked up into the foggy hills expecting, but not guaranteed, to find a family of gorillas. We were not disappointed. After about an hour-ish of hiking we found the Silverback and his many wives and children (ok, so maybe they never actually got "married" but really - what priest is going to "marry" a gorilla, let alone to five different women). Anyhow, I digress.

Point is, there were 11 gorillas (1 male, 5 adult females and 5 children) slowly wandering through the hills eating bamboo and playing in the trees. What a life!

So there we were - for exactly 3,600 seconds snapping untold pictures while quietly stalking these amazing beasts. Anyhow, fun times - and certainly worth the side-trip.

PS Thanks to Adam Sidwell for the head's up on how to do this (who to contact, where to go, how much to pay), and the video that convinced us we had to do it:

We're from Nairobi and we're on the ball...

2008-01-31T06:22:00.000-08:00

The cannibals may eat us, but they'll never beat us
'Cuz we're from Nairobi and we're on the ball

Singing un-ga-wah, un-ga-wah, un-ga-wah, un-ga-wah

Those aren't the exact words I learned as a a child, but they're close. Needless to say, no one's eating anyone; and they probably don't teach that song at camp anymore (just like they no longer sit kids down indian style). Dut I digress...

Anyhow, the people of Nairobi are certainly on the ball. This is a thriving city with plenty going on (and I'm told things are "slow" right now - it must be completely crazy when things are fully hopping). Today, after relocating to cheaper accomodations (tonght I'll be paying almost 1/3 what I paid last night), I wandered the city taking in the sights and sounds, and a few museums. I also got to stand on the heli-pad at the top of the Second-Tallest-Building-in-Nairobi (darn it all if the tallest-building didn't HAVE a heli-pad for me to stand on). Great view (I'll post it when I get home - yes, more photos!).

I stumbled onto a street filled with vendors selling "this and that." It SO reminded me of Korea. And it wasn't a touristy thing (obviously - there are no other tourists in Kenya right now). This was true Nairobi selling itself to each other. I loved it - and I bought some stuff.

My guide at the top of the Conference Center (Irene) gave me a good overview of the city, the buildings, the history, the views, etc... She even pointed me to a find place to eat dinner (but I decided to hold off and eat there later in the weak). All things considered, a great day. Heck, I even saw two Hindu Temples, several shot-guns, a gazillion matatus (mini-bus-taxis), and I had a guy invite me to sit down to a nice cup of coffee and discuss America (specifically whether or not there is discrimination there) - I refused his offer.

Anyhow, yeah. Niarobi. Fun place. And honestly, it seems like a safe enough place (on par with several other internation cities I've visited). Sure, I'm watching my back and I'm guard. But I guess I kinda like the adventure of randomly exploring and experiencing, while at the same time protecting and defending.

Solitary Vagabond...

PS Uhuru Park (apparently now world famous) even looks calm and peacefull (from the heli pad). I'll let you know what it really looks like later (yes Mom - after I've been there).

Staff: 25 - Guests: 6

2008-01-30T05:24:00.000-08:00

After landing on a dirt runway (yes, but recently renovated: longer, winder, and smoother) - we took a 30 minutes drive through safari-land to the Royal Mara Lodge Located In Masai Mara. We saw giraffes and other wonders (and this wasn't even technically a "game drive." But, who am I to stop nature from doing its thing on its own timetable.

Wow!

Edward, our driver, told us that our hotel (which usually accommodates 160 people during peak season - July/August) was a running a bit under occupancy. Apparently, no one got the word (from the pilot) that Kenya is still a wonderful, safe, and beautiful place to visit this time of year (or simply - this year).

It made for a very odd experience, having a hotel staff that outnumbered the guests 4 to 1! Even so, I'm not complaining. It meant that instead of a buffet - we got gourmet meals hand prepared by the head chef (and wow - those meals were some of the best I've had - ever). Also, out on Safari - we avoided the "safari experience" of being in a line to see the animals. Instead of 20+ vans of people cruising around looking for lions, hippose, rhinos, etc... there were 3 (maybe 4). We had the land to ourselves and had a bast!

Anyhow - to repeat. Now is the time to Safari in Kenya!

Notice how empty the pool is.

This is Your Pilot Speaking

2008-01-30T05:16:00.000-08:00

We flew to/from the Safari (thus avoiding the long, bumping, tedious "bus" ride). It cost a bit, but the whole adventure was well worth it.

One thing that stood out was the pilot handing me a box of mints on the plane as we prepared to take off and suggested that everyone enjoy one as an in-flight-snack. I think there were 11 of us on the flight (including the flight crew).

Anyhow, I felt like perhaps I was on the set of Indiana Jones, since our plane was about that same size/build as the ones he used to travel the world (maybe a bit newer): 2 props, a couple doors, plenty of window seats (don't ask how I managed not to get one), low altitude flights and flight durations (jumping from airport to airport) ranging from 6 minutes to 35 minutes. Fun times.

On our return flight, our pilot (American, I think) took a moment to encourage us to do the following (tell our friends about how great is is to visit Kenya and how the news reports are "probably true, but certainly unbalanced." His point being (and I paraphrase as I fulfill my assignment): large parts of Kenya are safe. Really! And super cool to visit. We had a wonderful time on Safari and never once worried about the unrest that is plaguing other parts of this country. Come, enjoy the spectacular that is Kenya.

There. Done. I could go on, and I will in another entry. Thing is, it was just funny to have the pilot of our airplane basically pleading with us to remind our friends and neighbors that there is still a wonderful, but apparently overlooked (currently) vacation destination (a destination that his job depends on you visiting, I presume).

So yeah: Visit Kenya. I highly recommend it.

Safari!

2008-01-30T05:00:00.000-08:00

OK, that's probably the fastest safari on the planet (actually - I'm kind of willing to guarantee such). We flew out of Nairobi at 10 am yesterday and returned (having seen much - see below) today at 1 pm. So, pretty-much a 24 hour trip into the wilderness.

And yet - to be frank - I think I saw what I "needed to." We saw four of the "Big Five" (Leopard, Elephant, Rhino, Lion, Buffalo) - we never found a Leopard. We also crossed paths with various birds, hippos, giraffes, wilder beasts, butterflies, hyenas, gazelles, and more. And yes - I took a few pictures (actually more than a few - 8).

Thing about the photos... I took many of them with my new friend (Sara Durden)'s camera. She brought a slcik 10.2 mega-pixel Nikon D40 SLR. Needless to say, I now want one. Sadly, she got quite sick and had to skip our 24 hour adventure into Masai Mara - but she was kinda enough to suggest that I take her camera with me. [Now the trick: to get the photos from her - she lives on the east cost, and I don't.]

Anyhow, we got really close to so many different animals. So much so, that the gazelles that amazed in during hour-one were "old hat" by the time we had to leave. Funny how that happens. Even so, I kept clicking the shutter. I'll see what I can do to whittle down the number of photos (for those who care to browse the highlights).

Hakuna Matata

2008-01-28T08:24:00.000-08:00

Don't worry. I've survived (and completely enjoyed) my week away from civilization - yet I couldn't stay away from the internet for another moment.

I've pretty much decided thought that I'll be writing up the trip and all the adventures... after I return. Time is short and the computer options are somewhat limiting.

Suffice it to say, things are grand. Our travel group has been a great mix of people from around the US. Three of us were new to Kenya, and the other six helped us to quickly adjust.

The people near Kitundu were wonderful and I took a bazillion photos of smiling kids (as well as hard working adults and amazing landscapes). The work we did there was exhausting, but the impact will be nothing shy of amazing.

From here, we head out to a safari. We'll be sleeping in "tents" tomorrow night, but I'm told these aren't normal tents.

Anyhow, that's enough to let you know I'm alive and well and enjoying myself. If you've been checking back looking for updates, thanks for up-ing my web counter and I appologize for the limited entries. I promise to make up for it later. And if you haven't been checking, then - well - I congratualte you on not wasting time on the internet.

No Riots in Kenya

2008-01-18T21:14:00.000-08:00

Yup - that's what our taxi driver said on the way from the airport yesterday. Granted, he then took the roundabout way to avoid certain parts of town (I love having a GPS). Eventually he fessed up and said there "had" been some riots, but people were tired of it now. Anyhow, whatever the case - the city (the parts I saw) are all pretty safe and average.

We're leaving in an hour to go to Kitundu (where they don't have electricity, so internet is pretty much out of the question). Yes, I'm alive. Things are great. I did laundry in my bathroom yesterday. We are now 9 people and we're excited for our week ahead.

The final and third week will have us on Safari and visiting other parts of the country. I'm worried though, since I can't seem to find the rest of my AA batteries. Camera - don't fail me now!!!!

dave

DSL - I think not.

2008-01-17T04:01:00.000-08:00

This is my fourth attempt (in as many days) to add an entry to this blog (don't think that I've forgotten you - my avid readers). I'm currently in Kigali, Rwanda and I'm just happy to have finally found an internet cafe with computers that appears to be working and an internet connection. Just don't expect photos or videos at this point.

Rwanda has been fantastic. The people are so friendly and the landscapes are more than I would have ever imagined. I must admit I knew little/nothing about this country before we got here. Oh sure, I saw "Hotel Rwanda" and I read the intro in the Lonely Planet book, but that's barely scratching the surface. We've met some wonderful people while adventuring through the country. I could come back here.

Tomorrow, we fly back to Nairobi for part two of the trip - but here are a few things that have happened so far:
- 4 movies during our 2 flights (17 hours of flying time)
- surprise meeting with Simon at airport
- flat tire in parking lot
- tea with Simon
- moutain hikes
- meeting Stephen
- malaria prevention side-effects
- motocycle rides
- lost passport (thankfully not mine)
- found passport (an hour later - stressful!)
- breakfast included (hot chocolate and bread)
- forgotten rain coat - a minor problem when it rains
- Treking with Gorillas
- COLD shower
- early morning Rwandan Police Department PT Training run
- new friends from Connecticut

Suffice it to say - that fact that only a week has passed is really quite stunning for all of us to refect on (there goes the dangling participle again). Anyhow, we've been having a wonderful time. I highly recommend Rwanda. Throw out any misconceptions of danger or lack of safety. We all agree that Rwanda actually seems much safer than Nairobi.

Anyhow, I hope you're well. I'd say to write, but email is harder to accomplish than posting to the blog... So yeah... I'll be in touch in February (and hopefully I'll find time and means to post before then).

dave

Only in Kenya

2008-01-11T14:26:00.000-08:00

My sister sent me this several weeks ago, and I figured it was the bast way to answer the big question... "So Dave, are you still going to Kenya!"

Yup!

To Africa or Not To Africa That is the Question

2008-01-10T01:44:00.000-08:00

Let me set the stage - if I may.

Several months ago, my friend invited me to join her on a service trip to Africa. In 2007, she went with them to Kenya and helped build a school in a local village - and decided to go back for another round. She promised me it would be worthwhile, amazing, and downright wonderful. I trust her. So, when she suggested I join the group on this year's trip - I just couldn't say no. And I said yes.

The plan is to go to Kitundu, Kenya and work through the local Anglican Church building an expansion onto their school. We're also taking school supplies, clothes, toys and other items that will - hopefully - benefit them. In fact, we got a group of friends together on Sunday (past) and made school kits (borrowing the idea from LDS Humanitarian Services) to distribute - and we've prepped a small "Noah's Ark" lesson plan/activity to do (multiple times) with various groups of children.

Anyhow, that's the plan... Now the problem.

Kenya had elections in December, and they didn't go smoothly. And unlike the less-than-smooth U.S. election of 2000 - the contested results of their presidential election has led to a fair amount of civil unrest.

Dave's Political Sidenote: I think too few people recognize or appreciate the miracle we enjoy (in the U.S.) of a stable government. Many Americans have issues with "this or that" in U.S. politics - and that is good. But, knowing that those differences won't be settled by blood thirsty gangs is something we ought reflect on*.

Anyhow, Kitundu is south east of Nairobi and the areas of major unrest are elsewhere. So, as the days go by, and our departure date approaches - we've been watching the news and praying that conditions will still be suitable for our visit. As of January 10, the plans are still on.

In addition to the service portion of the trip, 3 of us (Sara, Jen and I) are visiting Uganda and Rwanda before going to the village in Kenya. So, we leave on Friday and go first to Kigali, Rwanda (3 flights over roughly 30 hours). The original plan was to take a bus from Kenya to Rwanda - a lengthy bus, but an adventure to be sure. Since that bus would go right through the hot spots of western Kenya, we opted for the faster, easier, and safer option: an airplane.

After a week in/about Rwanda/Uganda, we'll head to Nairobi to meet up with the 6 other americans and our local hosts to head off down the dusty road to Kitundu. Upon finishing our work in the village, we're slated for a 2 day safari and then it's time for another couple days of flying!

I don't know if/how much access I'll have to the internet while I'm traveling, but I'll update as time/conditions permit. If all else fails, you can expect detailed blogs upon return.

Hopefully this entry satiates some need for information as the days pass by. I look forward to hearing from you.

dave

* Yes, Mom. I know. I ended that sentence with a preposition. Admitting a problem is the first step to overcoming it.

2007 Central America

2008-01-10T01:41:00.000-08:00

It's a travel blog, and I haven't been traveling lately - so I haven't updated it. With any luck, that's all about to change.

In the mean time - if you're interested in reading about last year's adventure to Central America, I've summed things up in one not-so-brief summary.

Or maybe all you want is photos or videos.

Read and view as much/little as you like.

A Not-So-Brief Summary

2007-05-22T16:56:00.000-07:00

Arg... Summarizing this is much harder than I would have thought. That's why I wrote so much as I went. But, if you're only interested in the CliffsNotes version - I hope this is good enough (even though it's still really long). I've tried to keep it relatively brief (follow the links to my original posts if you wish to read more), but it does seem to go on, and on...

Many of you probably want little more than,

I had a great time and I'm glad I went. And yes, I can speak some Spanish now.

So - for all of you: I had a great time and I'm glad I went. And yes, I can speak some Spanish now.

For everyone else, the option is yours: to read, or not to read. Enough people have expressed interest that I'm putting this out there for them! Oh, and check out the photos and videos.

Back in February, after finishing a job with Karaeiga, I decided I needed a fresh, revitalizing pause - before diving in on another project. (Some people buy convertibles or go sky-diving. Me? I said to myself, "Self - why not travel a few months and study Spanish?")

So off I went to Guatemala, Costa Rica, and Panama (a surprise last minute addition). Several friends led the way before me, inspiring the trip and encouraging me to go "while I had the chance." True words! And although I didn't travel for the entire time - I'm closing in on 4 months of "holiday." I highly recommend it: traveling that is*, and especially extended traveling (the sort that lets you relax, ponder, regroup, and consider stuff - from an outsider's perspective... while at the same time availing opportunities to learn, have fun, meet new people, explore, and see the world).

* Taking time off work is pretty nice too - but this is about what I did do - not what I didn't do. But sadly, it's time for the break to end and for me to go back to work.

Language Schools and Learning Spanish
Initially, my interest in Central/South America was cursory at best, but recently that interest started to grow (living in LA has that effect I suppose). So, I enrolled in 2 schools: La Union (in Guatemala) and Wayra (in Costa Rica). I figured living in-country would be a more effective method than enrolling in a Saturday morning class at SMC. I decided to hit two countries so as to experience more culture and learn more versions of Spanish. I knew I'd done the right thing from day # 1 when I arrived and started classes. Wow!

I studied 4-6 hours five days a week (it varied from week to week) and I had a total of 4 teachers - 2 at each school. That was good to keep me learning new things in different ways. But, it was frustrating as well - since each time I switched teachers I felt like I got dropped back a grade to review stuff I already knew but wasn't using (no surprise: knowing ≠ using). The school in Guatemala really pushed grammar, and I learned tons... Then when I got to Costa Rica, I realized my conversational skills and vocabulary needed a push. And good thing - that's what they specialized in. So it worked out perfectly: start with a fast push for grammar and comprehension, then move on to expression and an expanded working vocabulary.

Somewhere in my head, I've stashed away the Korean I once knew. Now, when I try to speak it - out comes Spanish (or occasionally Spanish with Korean conjugation - weird, I know). The cool thing is - it means I actually learned something. As a reference point: one week of Spanish seems to equal to about a month of Korean. I remember about 10 months in Korea thinking I could finally talk to people, and that's about how I feel with my Spanish after 10 weeks.

So - Mission accomplished. I'm not fluent, nor did I think I would be. But I can speak, read, and write in Spanish. And I think that's pretty cool. What's the practical application of this? I don't know, but I don't use Korean much either (and that doesn't stop me from being glad I learned it). Just learning something new is worth it. Knowledge!

Colonial Life and Religion in Antigua
In Guatemala, I spent most of my time in Antigua. What a cool place to call home! It's a great city with plenty to see and do - and it's super cheap! Built in the 1500s and somewhat destroyed by an earthquake in the 1700s, they somehow decided to keep Antigua a representation of the colonial past. So, it makes for great walking tours, ruins, churches, music, and culture. It's really beautiful and somehow really relaxing. Oh and my fellow students were great people (especially the Triumvirate of Wandering).

Catholicism is a big deal there - at least at Easter time. I really didn't realize what I was getting into. Sure, I'd read about the processions and all, but nothing fully prepared me for what I saw when I got there. And, repeatedly seeing these communal-struggles effected me and I took the opportunity to contemplate my own faith and why I do what I do. The spirit in Antigua and my background also led to many discussions about religion (the good, the bad, and the ugly). The long lasting effect of early Catholic "domination" doesn't sit too well with many of the locals, and all us foreigners were just trying to grasp the whole procession thing.

Panama
Bocas del Toro was a wonderful last minute addition to my trip. Panama is a undiscovered gem in Central America. I really can't say enough about it, but the border crossing, the canals, the dolphins, white sands, everything... Go - I highly recommend it. Aside from simply living in Antigua, this weekend was probably the highlight of my trip (sorry Cath).

Tamarindo
And then, if I had to pick a non-highlight for the trip? I guess it would be the city of Tamarindo.http://www.blogger.com/img/gl.link.gif It may have been the culturally void (mostly) contrast with Antigua or just the over commercialization and touristy feel of Costa Rica, but whatever it was... Tamarindo isn't on my list of places to re-visit. Even so, I had fun surfing, riding scooters, and hanging out with the students. But Tamarindo itself? Nothing special (in my book), and yet there are condos for sale for $680,000 if you decide you're interested. Weird.

Traveling in Costa Rica
But, making up for Tamarindo is the rest of the country. Weekends in Monteverde and La Fortuna were totally unforgettable! Costa Rica has some amazing natural wonders and a booming Eco-Tourism industry. Bugs, zip-lines, off-roading, etc... Really cool stuff.

Wow, that pretty much covers it... At least summarily. Enjoy!

Movies and Virtual Reality

2007-05-22T12:05:00.000-07:00

I love QuickTime VR. It allows me to do this!

Clickn-n-drag the image...
Try pressing shift, alt, or command.
Hopefully it works on your computer.

I shot a whole bunch of these while I was traveling and they'll soon be available here for your pleasure.

I also shot a bunch of movies, but I don't know how many of them are worth watching. Many are just 15 second clips that spark a memory. Anyhow, they're also available here.

A word of warning though: the web server isn't the fastest (i.e. It's really slow), but you're welcome to watch whatever suits your fancy.

Photos are more readily available here.

Photos

2007-05-22T08:54:00.000-07:00

I shot about 2,500 photos/videos (rough estimate) during the trip. That works out to about one roll of film a day (in the days before digital) so it's not that much. Since I had over 18 GB* of space to store images, I kinda went picture-happy as I plowed my way through shot... after shot... after shot... after shot...

My guess is that few will have the time (or interest) to look at them all, but I've posted as many as I could for anyone who does (have the time or interest - mainly my fellow traveling companions so they can find images from our times together for their own collections).

I've broken the collection up into 9 albums by location... So, feel free to browse through whichever or whatever suits your fancy!

Although I've been a long supporter of Ofoto - their system wasn't ready to handle this sort of volume. So, I've posted them at snapfish. You'll probably have to log-in to see the images; I hope that works for you!

See the end-note for info about alternative download options.

Before and After - 19 photos
Los Angeles moments before and moments after...

Antigua - 1169 photos (home base in Guatemala)
Colonial City
Religious Processionals
Spanish School - "La Union"
A Triumvirate of Wandering
Churches, Cathedrals, Ruins

Lake Atitlan and Chichicastenango - 95 photos
Remote Pueblos
Central American Market
Reggaeton
Road Trip

Tikal and Rio Dulce - 174 photos
Ancient Ruins
The Freezing Bus Ride
Castle to Fend off Pirates!

San Jose - 67 photos (passing through 3 times)
Tico Train
Children's Museum
Over Commercialized Central American City

Panama - 139 photos (and the trip there and back)
Wild border crossing
Snorkeling and Dolphins
Water Taxi

Tamarindo - 203 photos (home base in Costa Rica)
Beaches
Surfing
Language School: Wayra

Monteverde - 188 photos (and the cloud forest)
Zip Lines
Bugs
Cloud Forrest

La Fortuna - 91 photos (and the volcano - Arenal)
Hiking
Volcanoes
Vistas
Hot Springs

Panoramas - 31 photos
Wide-screen panoramas from various times and places throughout the trip.

For those who want access to these files in full, high-res splendor - something snapfish wont give you for free - I've posted them all here on my web site. Be forewarned: this is a pretty slow server (but if you want access to the original files, this is where they are). The names match the names listed on snapfish and all the images include the date-shot. You should be able to find any file you need...

If you just want to browse the lo-res images, but can't/won't log into snapfish, the entire collection is here. (It will load much slower than snapfish - but it's an option).

Finally - the movies and Virtual-Reality files are here.

15 Pounds

2007-05-20T21:59:00.000-07:00

It's official, the clothes confirm (and the scale agrees) that I lost some weight in Central America. And as far as I'm concerned they can keep it. As a freshman in college, I boasted 3% body fat (I was a growing boy). Trust me, I'm not that lean - but I will say that a few months in Guatemala will do wonders for those "unwanted" pounds.

Anyhow, I know: This is where you all chime in saying, "Um Dave - you're a tiny little stick." Well, so-be-it, but I'm glad to be back to the stick I was 2 year ago (I like that weight). Now I don't have to worry about buying a new Sunday suit!

How's My Spanish

2007-05-20T21:50:00.000-07:00

All day, people have been asking how my trip was, and especially how my Spanish is. Well, my roommate Kevin (who speaks Spanish) seems to think I speak pretty well. I figure he's a better (and more realistic) judge than I am. Overall, I'm pleased with what I learned, but also acknowledge that there's plenty I don't understand. No surprise.

Anyhow, I speak easily on many subjects, but have huge gaps in my vocabulary. Even so, hand symbols and patience go a long way. As long as the person I'm talking to actually wants to talk to me - I'm good to go!

In any case, I hope I'm doing better than this...

Showers

2007-05-20T03:22:00.000-07:00

I think I detailed the electric showers of Guatemala, but I may not have mentioned that in Costa Rica there was no hot water (heated by a water heater, that is). This really wasn't a problem though, since the days were 90-ish degrees and the unheated water was about actually nearly 80 degrees (and the last thing anyone really wanted, in the heat of Costa Rica ,was a hot shower - or anything else to make them hotter than they already were).

Even so, one of the things I was looking forward to upon my return (by the way, I'm back) was a nice leisurely hot shower (this is America after all). Well - this was not to be. You see - if you want hot water for your hot shower, you have to pay the gas company. And well...

It seems that Friday... The gas company finally decided it would teach my roommate a lesson about not paying bills. Perfect timing! So - I guess those "cold" showers in Costa Rica were good practice for the one I just took. Granted, I think the water was closer to 60 degrees this time around and the apartment is a balmy 72 degrees right now...

So yeah... It was cold. In theory we'll have hot water again on Monday. However, if I stink a bit on Monday - you'll know why. One cold shower was enough.

My lucky day

2007-05-20T03:06:00.000-07:00

You know how I thought I'd have a long, boring, arduous travel day on Saturday? Not so.

While riding into town, I realized we were driving right by the airport. No need to go into the city, just to go through the hassle of transferring onto another bus to go back out of the city. So, I jumped off the bus (at 12:02 pm thank you), walked into the airport, checked my bags, and had a full afternoon to enjoy a bit more of San Jose without all my stuff (and without 2 extra bus rides and a taxi).

It turned out that I had about 4 hours, so I went and got another look at San Jose - though the eyes of a child. I went the the Children's Museum. I'm just a big kid, so I really like children's museums. Ages ago, our family would visit the Science Center in Toronto, and I just could get enough. So, in LA, Washington, Rochester, New York, Long Island, even Munich... I'm a sucker for the kids museums.

Cool thing about this one (sorry no pictures yet) was that it's inside a renovated prison. Yup, about 15 years ago an old, run down, falling apart, unusued prison needed something to do with itself. And someone figured out a way to get the money to renovate and open it as a museum! Super cool. Nothing like learning about the pyramids of Egypt from a prison cell.

Anyhow, in the end - I think San Jose grew on me. I don't know if I need to go back, but I found enough to like that I retract my initial assessment.

More Goodbye

2007-05-18T09:59:00.000-07:00

Well, much like for Marisa and Sara - this week, we had ourselves a couple "goodbye" dinners here in Costa Rica as well. Francis cooked up a another feast on Wednesday then we got together on Thursday for a lot of pasta (with 3+ options for sauce, thank you). Fun times both nights and yummy vittles to be had.

And yes, Grasshoppers both night.

Why don't you Swiss people like mint with chocolate???

And the winners are...

2007-05-18T09:51:00.001-07:00

I'd like to thank the academy for this oportunity.

I'd also like to thank Maret, Mike, Emily, and Scott. Certainly, others have made comparable contributions to the page-counter, but my amature sluething abilities lead me to believe that these 4 are my top readers.

I just like to name drop, so there you go - you're on my blog! Thanks for your comments as well as your encouragement. (Thanks also to all you annonymous browsers of my ramblings: Kathryn, Wendy, my parents and sisters... and more).

This has been a fun trip and I'm not done blogging yet, but I wanted to get you (named and un-named) on here before I forgot.

A Long Day Ahead

2007-05-18T09:35:00.000-07:00

For those wondering, "When does all this crazy Vagabondary finally end?" I have an answer... Saturday. But, let me describe the plan to finish this adventure with a bang (or at least a long drawn out rumble).

Tomorrw morning, I catch a bus at 5:45 am Costa Rica time (4:45 Los Angeles time) for the 6 hour ride to San Jose. When I arrive in San Jose, I take a short taxi (not a long one, we already went over that) from one bus station to another bus station. Then, I take a bus from downtown San Jose to the airport. I expect to arrive at the San Jose airport around 1:15 pm.

Then, I wait for about 5 hours. My flight leaves San Jose at 6:15 pm. But, since my bus options were the 5:45 or a noon bus (too late), I'll be arriving plenty early for my pending flight.

At 6:15 pm I leave Costa Rica for antoher 6 hour journey - arriving in LA at 11:30 (12:30 Costa Rica time).

Check my math, but I think it's about 19 hours of travel. I hope I can find a plug in airport for my iPod!

Now, why am I not flying out of Liberia? A good question. And I don't have an answer. Rookie mistake, I suppose.

How do we sleep while our beds are burning

2007-05-18T09:28:00.000-07:00

Walking to the bus this morning, I was reminded of a Midnight Oil song... Maybe you don't know the song, it doesn't really matter.

Anyhow, point is - there's nothing like burning foam to give the morning a fresh scent!

This is a pretty standard method for getting rid of trash (usually paper and dirt, but I guess plastics as well).

Unfortunately I don't have access to the photo right now, but a few weeks ago - at the bus stop - a women was using matches and lighter fluid to ignite her trash. Imagine your grandmother playing with fire: I was amused!

Food

2007-05-18T09:00:00.000-07:00

Breakfast in Costa Rica is always a surprise. Some days, I eat the same food the family eats (Gallo Pinto). Some days I get my own 'special' feast. It's been odd for me getting my own menu. It makes it feel like there's an awkward imbalance in the house. I asked my house mom about it, and I guess past students have complained about "Gallo Pinto every day."

When I first arrived, she asked me what food I liked or didn't like. Trying to be easy (I'm like that), I told her pretty much everything works. Sure, I don't drink coffee or tea in the morning, but otherwise - anything goes. Then, I noticed that I was rarely served what everyone else was eating. Strange.

I often eat alone in the mornings. Apparently, no one likes eating as early as me. So, I wake up to my own privtate morning meal. Sometimes I've wished I could just eat the "normal" local food, but I never found a polite way to (without offending them) tell them that their efforts at "American" food were somewhat wasted on me. The few times I've had Gallo Pinto, I've really liked it. However, I've decided that the cheese and pancakes of Costa Rica leave something to be desired.

Unlike Antigua, I have to find my own lunch daily. In an effort to keep things cheap... I often survive on a slice of pizza from the local supermarket. That's $2, but the restaurants around here are ready to charge $8 for lunch. Needless to say, I haven't really gotten to know the restaurants. I'm suffering from memories of insanely cheap food in Guatemala, and I can't bring myself to endulge the "crazy" prices of this overpriced tourist town.

For dinner, I usually eat at my host home. Sometimes I eat alone, sometimes with one or two others. Often, then don't eat dinner (not hungry after a long hot day - I guess), but I know they rarely (if ever) all sit down together...

Small

2007-05-16T16:17:00.000-07:00

I went surfing today for the second time. It was relatively uneventful (mainly because I had to get to class before the "good" waves arrived). But, anyhow - I went.

Then, afterwards - I was getting cleaned up (using the showers at the school to wash off the sand and salt, etc... As I was getting dressed, I looked down at my sandals (which I had taken and rinced while I washed - and this is what I saw. Look really close - maybe click on the image for the bigger view!

Um, hello - he was sharing the shower with me!!!!!

Online, it says that that their stings are relatively harmless to humans; stings produce only local effects (such as pain, numbness or swelling). Funny thing, that's not what I thought. Nor did I feel like testing the theory that "if you read it online it must be true."

So, I let the maintenance guy take care of it - which he did by picking it up with his hands and taking it away.

Yowsers!!

Arenal

2007-05-15T09:46:00.000-07:00

The main attraction (The Volcano - Arenal) almost eluded us this weekend. It's been active, to one degree or another, for several decades... And we wanted a good look. You can't really tell, but there's a volcano hiding in those clouds. The rain for the night before left La Fortuna with a pretty heavy cloud cover the next morning.

This is what that same scene looked like the day before (before we shot off to the other hike and the waterfall). We had actually planned on doing both volcanos the first day, but we changed our plans when the first one took so long, and tired us out, and then the rain came. Our hope was to do Arenal Sunday morning before returning to Tamarindo.

But, well - clouds make looking at lava on a volcano difficult. So, what to do? Window shop of course: kill time! And what do you know - it worked.... An hour later, things cleared up - some. And we decided it was worth a try.

This volcano is a lot more active (and larger) than the volcano in Guatemala, but not nearly as exciting, since you can't see the lava from the base! On the other hand, what Arenal has is massive lava flows and an impressive history. Although we didn't get to see "frash" lava, we could hear it "breathing" and we saw numberous boulders roll down the side bouncing as they went. Amazing!

We hiked a path that (15 years ago) was destroyed by lava. And well - they make it very clear that there's always a dangerous unpredictablity about volcanos!

Really?

Surfing the Tides

2007-05-15T09:29:00.000-07:00

Well, I took a surf lesson last Monday. I was able to get-up and yet when it was all over, I was sicker-than-a-dog (I'm out of shape and surfing takes work). I included Tamarindo in my trip because I wanted to "learn to surf." Well, I learned.

Unfortunately, the good tides (high tide) for surfing here coincide with my classes (ie my classes at Wayra are at the same time as the good tides). So, that means I haven't been out on the water surfing a second time. I tried to go yesterday, but poor planning on my part meant I couldn't rent a board (I left my credit card at home, and imagine this: they wanted a deposit for the board - and they wouldn't take my iPod and camera).

Today, I thought about going. It's likely my last chance for good waves, but having been inside for some time (in air conditioning) at this internet cafe - I'm so not interested in

going outside
changing clothes
lathering up the sunscreen
surfing for less than an hour
likely feeling sick
cleaning up in time for class
and fitting lunch in as well

I have just over 2 hours before I start class (1 pm daily, this week).

I think I've figured out why I never learned to surf in LA. Sports that offer such a low ROI on time usually don't interest me. The prep/cleanup time for surfing is about the same as (if not more than) the actual activity. In UT, my sport of choice was skiing. The pay off (8+ hours of skiing) was worth the investment (1.5 hours to get there and back and clean up). I guess I'm "lazy" when it comes to sports.

Outside at Arenal

2007-05-15T08:59:00.000-07:00

There are so many options of things to do near La Fortuna. Unfortunately, most of them cost an arm and a leg.

Canyoning
Rafting
Hot Springs
Zip Lines
Waterfalls
Bridges
ATV Tours
Horse Back Riding
and more

We opted for the (relatively speaking) cheaper options of hiking, waterfalls, and a trip to the Baldi Hot Springs. Our first hike was up a volcano (an inactive volcano) near Arenal (an active volcano). I'm pretty sure none of us knew what we were getting into. This "three hour tour" took us up up up up up. My legs are still sore (three days later). I guess it's good though, since it helps prepare me for the annual Broadbent summer hike in the Adirondacks!

Anyhow, as we reached the "sumit" (the lake near the top of the dormant volcano) the seasonal clouds rolled it. Honestly, had we gotten there 10 minutes later, I think the entire hike would have been wasted. Luckily, we got to see what was there - and see it dissapear. These images span about 3 minutes. It was really cool.

I stank really bad when it was over - and I ran out of water about half way through the hike (even though I think I was still carrying several gallons in my clothes!).

After that, we headed down (instead of up) to a big swimming hole at the base of this waterfall! As luck would have it (it is the rainy season) it started pouring only moments after we reached the bottom. But, hey - at least I was able to rinse the stench out of my shirt!

That evening, we warmed up (waterfalls are not warm, nor is rain) at the Baldi Hot Springs. I know a few people that would call this place heaven. 25 pools of varrying temperature (I'm a fan of 104 degrees, but if you want it they've got much "warmer" and also much cooler.

And yes, in honor of my by-gone days in Korea - I did a few rapid transistions from the hot to the cold and back to the hot... "It's good for you," or so they say! I just think it's a fun "tradition" - but don't get me talking about how I feel about what asians say is "good" for the body.

Wow - This is good!

2007-05-15T08:37:00.000-07:00

Finally I made it to the weekly dinner party at the student house. Last week, I wandered the streets looking for the famed house (to no avail) and went home unfed, and unhappy.

This week, I had a guide and I was able to join in Francis' weekly feast. Aside from Easter Dinner (dang, I just realized I didn't write about East Dinner!!!) this was one of the best meals I've had during my trip. He made us pasta AND curry. Oh, how I miss good curry!

Anyhow,k we hung out for a few hours and I dug through Francis' iPod of really great music (or rather, he showcased some great music). I stopped collecting, buying, and picking music several years ago. I guess I've saved money and dedicated my time in other persuits, but I miss knowing great music.

Easter: I met a family (a couple) at church and they invited me to join them, the missionaries, and a two other families visiten Guatemala from the states. 15+ joined for a feast of true Easter proportions. I had kinda forgotten about mashed potatoes, gravey, roast, and all that. I loved the food I was getting from Casa Juanita, but it (gratefully) avoided that American bloated "I've eaten too much feeling." I didn't really miss that feeling, but maybe it helps paint the picture of what a feast we had.

Cops and Robbers

2007-05-15T08:23:00.000-07:00

I live with a family out in the country. One of their daughters (and her family) live in a house out in the back yard. Her daughter is 7. And well... she thinks I understand everything she says. It's kinda funny, since everyone else int he family gives me time to think and question things I might not fully comprehend.

Kembly, however, has taken a liking to the newest house guest and last night she invited me into a rousing game of cops and robbers. She accused me of stealing "something from someone" and insisted that I tell her all about it and confess my crime. She even went into the bad cop routine of banging a brush on the couch and yelling "Tell me!" I was almost expecting a bright light and them a little german "We have ways to make you talk."

Two of her aunts (my house "sisters") had a good laugh at the whole thing. I decidedn to confess that I'd stolen a TV and a radio, but only after bargaining for a reduced sentence. Originally, I was facing 30 days in the slammer, but I agreed to confess only after I got to to lower it to 9 days.

Then, in a strange turn of events, she was facing time - and I was the cop. Busted!

Anyhow, I find talking with kids to be the easiest way to practice Spanish. I'm less self concious and they don't seem to care if I'm talking gibberish. I did the same thing ages ago at Lake Atitlan with all the street vendors. 11 year old girls were trying to sell me gifts for my "girlfriends." I had fun asking them (among other things) if they knew where/who my girlfriend was (since I currently am in the dark on this matter).

A Swiss Trip to Arenal

2007-05-14T11:31:00.000-07:00

Does this image look familiar? This weekend, I headed back up into the mountains (this time to La Fortuna to see Arenal and enjoy more of the mountains). It's around the lake from Monteverde. 4 swiss students invited me to join them. They all speak German, English and some Spanish. Being the only American, I'm glad I brought my iPod for the quiet times (or the German times, depending on how you look at it). Oh sure, they spoke English well enough and often enough.

It's been interesting spending so much time with non-Americans. In Antigua, it was mostly Sweeds and French Canadians. Here it's Germans and Swiss. It's good for me really. It's funny (for lack of a better word) how their opinions differ from any american "norm." Of the non-Americans I've met, few would likely understand or associate themselves with either political party in the US. We (Americans) are a strange breed. Most non-Americans like Americans - but often have problems with our government. I guess (on one hand) I'm greatful for that (since it means they don't international politics against me).

Granted, I think it's an odd way to look at the world: considering governments and peoples in separate categories (especially concerning Americans who should believe in govermentment of the people, by the people, for the people).

Animals at School

2007-05-14T11:25:00.000-07:00

I've been waiting for weeks to see monkeys. I'm told there are monkeys at Tikal (but I didn't see any). Then, I was told that there were monkeys here in Costa Rica, but again - I hadn't seen any.

And yes, this iguana is eating the dog food.

The school also has 1 cat, and several dogs. For some reason I don't have any picutres of them. Imagine that?! I guess cats don't interest me (except that I do what I can to stay far far away from them). One joined our class my first week and Josh fed it a cracker. Note to all: don't feed cats - especially during class.

They Call This Culture

2007-05-14T11:17:00.000-07:00

I'm not convinced that Costa Rica has maintained any of it's original culture (or at least, it's all been wiped out along this touristy coast). But, the school hosted a little "Culture Night" last week. It ended up being a 20 minute dance recital followed by wanna-be-dancing with the entire school, but I guess that counts.

In addition to watching this couple dance (to a CD that continually skipped), we had a competition to see who could "scream" the best. I guess the guys in the country have a farmers scream. Or maybe not, but that's the impression I got. Each dance started with a cry out from the guy. Granted, maybe it's the equivalent of a contrustion worker whistling at a girl (they didn't really explain it). They did however get all the men up front and we had one chance to show how "tico" (Costa Rican) we were.

I didn't win.

Zippity Do Da

2007-05-09T12:27:00.000-07:00

OK, so here's the deal...

Length: 1476 ft.
Height: 426 ft.

It's really easy. All you have to do is

show up
pay $32
don't scream too loud
fly

Catherine was a bit worried about the heights (so it's probably a good thing we didn't tell her she'd get to do it 12 times! Yup, 12 zip lines throughout the cloud forrest near Monteverde. The first few runs are "practice" runs to get you ready for the real ones. What a rush (oh, wait - I mean view). The view of the forrest is fantastic, but I'll be honest - I was a bit distracted by the fact that I was flying by at 45 mph! I highly recommend it.

On the other hand, if you just don't trust your life to a small metal pulley and a stap of nylon webbing, there's always the other option: bridges. We did both. The bridges may not be as "adventurous" but we got yet another close look at the forrest, but this time from the air.

Lions and Tigers and Bear... and more...

2007-05-08T12:13:00.001-07:00

OK, so there are no lions, ligers, or bears up here. But, that doesn't change the fact that there should be. Everything else seems to live in these forrests (7+ millions ants, beatles, spiders, fireflies, Two-Toed Sloths, Tucans, etc...). We went on two hikes through the "backwoods,"and saw a collection of unexpected and amazing stuff. One of the hikes was at night, and might I say, "Night is the time to visit the forrest."

Granted - without a guide, we probably wouldn't have seen a thing (and this forrest would have felt like any number of other random places I've hiked at night). However, Carlos (Ws that his name? Sure. Why Not?) seemed to have x-ray/night-vision eyes. He turned this way and that way and kept finding bugs, birds, mamals, and more. So worth it!

Sunday morning, we went back in for another peak (in the daylight). We didn't see the monkeys Cath was hoping to see, or nearly as many animals/bugs as the night before, but it was still a great way to see the forest and spend the morning together.

Click on the photo, then look at the base of the tree to see Grant scrambling up it - and get a picture of the truely amazing size of these trees!

And yes, it's "rainy season" here too (like everywhere else I've been lately).

The Road to Monteverde

2007-05-08T11:44:00.000-07:00

The hot spot to visit in Costa Rica seems to be Monteverde, and for good reason. The place is amazing, but it's also in the middle of nowhere. In fact, the people that live there have requested that it remain thusly isolated. Getting there seems like a pretty easy task, until you reach the final 35 km (intentionally unpaved, rocky, dirt roads). Oh sure, there are 4 (maybe even 5) different roads into town, but they're all a bit bumpy.

The views along the way are amazing though. We drove into town (and away) during sutsets (on Friday and Sunday respectively*) and we got to see the clouds come in and the colors change. It's really quite beautiful. It's super thick rain forest up there. Technically, it's a cloud forest because it's pretty much enveloped in the clouds most days.

* for those tracking my movements on the Broadbent--Travels-Commomorative-Calendar

Catherine and Grant

2007-05-07T16:50:00.000-07:00

OK, we NY Broadbents know who to plan vacations. Or rather, we get really lucky. Catherine (my sister) and Grant planned a trip to Costa Rica that perfectly coincided with my trip. And yet, we didn't even have to coordinate it. In fact, I think it was a bit of a surprise to us that it happened. Whatever the case, they were my salvation from Tamarindo this weekend.

More about this photo, and many more in future entries, but alas - I have to get to my äfterschool" activity. Suffice it to say, we have a blast in Monteverde. Now, back to the weekly grind on the beach. Rough life.

Oh, and Cath gave me AA-batteries and pens for my birthday. Very important!

It Looks So Easy

2007-05-07T16:40:00.000-07:00

In my college days, I had a nickname. 18 years ago, my friends called me "Mouse." It's a long story. Well, not really - but I don't feel like telling it.

Suffice it to say, these mice have me beat on the waves.Today, I had my first surf lesson (finally), and I pretty much wanted to hurl when it was over. I am SOO out of shape. For those of you who surf, you already know this. For the rest of you - surfing is NOT just about "catching the wave" or "getting up on your first try" (which I did, thank you). It's also about pulling yourself through the water with only your hands, while balancing precariously on a board and being repeatedly attacked by mountains of water. I really need to work my upper body.

My teacher says 10 pushups in the monring and 10 at night every day will make a difference. He might be right, but perhaps I ought to just start swimming again. Whatever the case, my teacher (I think his name was George) got me going and I now understand what I need to practice.

Some people scoff at Tamarindo's waves, but I was completely satisfied. They were as big as I could have wanted and plentiful. It was a bit "crouded"but I don't really have anything to compare it to. However, it was nice to have various instructors yelling to their respective students, "Now, now, pladle!" It helps with the whole, "When do I go?" question of starting to surf.

We'll see about getting back out in the water. Unfortunately, my school schedule an the local tide charts seem to be in disagreement over where and what I ought to be doing.

A Week in Review

2007-05-03T17:23:00.000-07:00

Well, this week seems to have flown by (new family, scotter tours, swimming, school, electricity difficulties, new friends, etc... Here are a few photos from a variety of locations and events. I won't bore you (or me) with any more specifics, but enjoy these photos noneetheless.

It seems as if there was something new and exciting everyday! I've been pretty busy. And leaving the house at 7:30 am and returning at 8:00 pm daily has worn me out.

Vroom

2007-05-03T17:14:00.000-07:00

Josh (my classmate) suggested we rent a scooter and explore our surroundings. So, off we went. After class Tuesday, we rented a moped and had it for 24 hours. Wednesday before class we left bright and early and spent 6 hours cruising town (and surroundings). Don't I look goofy?

We found a few cool beaches, met some crabs living on volcanic rock, and cruised through a few neighborhoods of various states of development (this area is pretty much one big construction zone - it's really kindof amazing). Fun times!

I'm not sure what else to say, but really - this week has been "something new ever day."

Wayra

2007-05-03T17:03:00.000-07:00

Wayra is my new school in Costa Rica. They picked me up (in a minivan) from my host family bright and early Monday morning (not a problem though, since I was already up quite early without a problem). Anyhow, I had a quick interview and then I was told I'd start class in the afternoon. Huh? Oh, ok - so I guess I had the morning to explore town (something I enjoy). So off I went...

That afternoon, I started class. I'm in a "group" class, but that ends up being totally fine, since it's a "group" of 2 students. I was a bit worried that I'd end up in a class with 5 people (which I was prepared for, but not particularly looking forward to). Instead, it's Josh and me with Sylvia as our teacher - for week one anyhow (since Josh is leaving at the end of the week), and I'll change teachers next week. Every week - a new teacher. That's how it is.

And (as with La Union) there was an afterschool activity... We learned how to make (i.e. we helped cook) something of a local treat. I can't remember what it was called or how to make it, but it was fun nonetheless hanging out with the other students and trying some local food.

Rendevous

2007-05-03T10:37:00.000-07:00

Luckily, on Sunday I was able to catch the last bus to Tamarindo at 3:30. Thing is, it's a 6+ hour ride and I didn't want to show up on my family's door step at some crazy late hour. Luckily, the bus ran a little ahead of schedule.. But, here's the trick. I was told to get off at one stop - and my family was waiting for me (something I didn't know to expect) at a different stop.

So, I grabbed a taxi (like I had been instructed in an email from the school) and made my way to the house (at about 9:30 - pushing it in my mind for "late arrival"). I even had a phone number so the cab driver gave them a call to be sure things were good (and to help us find the house - since the address was "150 Meters East of the Plaza). No one answered. Wooops.

Nothing like being out at night in a new city with nothing but dirt roads in all directions and a cab driver who can't figure out where to take you. Anyhow, the "mom" wandered up the street about the time I was starting to worry and said she had been at the "other" bus stop waiting for me.

Oh well - long story with a boring ending.

Things worked out. I was exhausted. I moved in, showered (first time in 3+ days, thanks) and went to bed...

I met the animals the next morning.

Tico Tren

2007-05-03T10:31:00.000-07:00

Tico is Spanish for "Costa Rican."

Tren is "train"

This is the Tico Tren.

It's a bit hokey (for lack of a better word), but I'm glad I rode it. I got a nice overview of the city without having to kill hours walking. Also, the driver's son gave a nice little "this is this and that is that" speach (bilingually, I might add).

Granted, the book said it would be $2 and it was really $4, but who's couting? We saw a tree that John F. Kenedy planted. We saw the supreme court. We saw a house that's now a restaurante (don't ask me why it's on the tour). And more. Fun times.

Oh sure, the "train" broke down at one point and we had a 10 minute "wait while we clean out the carborator" moment and I ended up missing the 1 pm bus to Tamarindo, but again: who's counting.

Toto, We're Not in Kansas Anymore

2007-05-03T09:45:00.000-07:00

OK, I'll admit that many of these images could probably be found someone in Guatemala as well, but I found Costa Rica (San Jose) to be quite a shock after Antigua. It's a big city that initially I only wanted to get out of (excuse my sentences conclusion with a preporition - this is not my masters thesis for partial fulfilliment of requirements for my MA in English).

My first day in San Jose, I was just in a hurry to get out to get to Bocas del Toro, but coming through the second time - I was able to see it as something more interesting and alive. But still, the corporate (American) presence is unmistakable.

New Family - And monrings

2007-05-02T17:31:00.000-07:00

Well, I finally arrived in Tamarindo and found my new home. I am now the only student living with a family in Santa Rosa (near but not in Tamarindo). They have 6 kids, but only the 3 youngest daughters still live at home. So it's those 5, me, and all the animals and neighbors. I guess you could call it a farm, or at least say "It's in the 'country.'"

I wake up every morning at 5:15 to the roosters (and the dogs) singing praises to the approaching sun. Needless to say, that means that my 9:30 I'm complete exhausted and ready for bed. Today, we had the added adventure of a whole road crew (including flat-roller and bulldozer) rumbling down the street at 6:15. They "finally" decided it's time to pave the road - in my honor I guess. At fist it seemed like a minor earthquake, but eventually I figured out that they were just going back and forth in front of the house with heavy equipment.

I asked if this was a normal thing, or maybe something they did annually. Nope, it's a first. Thus, it's not just upkeep for the dirt road, they're prepping for a real road!

Fun times.

Anyhow, I gotta run:
1) the power's about to go out
2) we have a bon fire on the beach as an after-school activity

PS Have I mentioned how much I (don't) like bon fires... Oh well, the things I do as part of the "school" experience!

Electricity

2007-05-02T17:14:00.000-07:00

Don't take electricity for granted. Yup. That's what I said. It turns out that Costa Rica is in the midst of a bit of a power "crisis."

I have no idea what the real science/politics are behind it, but here's how it works... The power goes out (city wide, and perhaps country wide) for 3-4 hours a day (most days). Period.

I wanted to blog a few first impressions on Tuesday, but wouldn't you know it - no power, during my non-school hours. It also puts a damper on lunch-time meals (I'm not provided a lunch here like I was in Guatemala, I have to fend for myself). Restaurants have a hard time preparing food without electricity.

In theory, the power is going off in 30 minutes, so hopefully I can get enough done before "lights out."

Yes, I have a flashlight. Oh wait. Darn. No I don't. I left it at home today (because I thought, "Who needs a flashlight during the day.")

2007-05-01T08:36:00.000-07:00

Hey everyone, here's the promised info on Casa Juanita. If you're going to Antigua, it's a great place to stay: quiet, clean, friendly, yummy, etc... Juanita Mazariegos was a great host for my time studying in Guatemala.

Her beautiful, authentic colonial house is walking distance from "La Union," and the Church of San Fransisco... But then again - everything in Antigua is within "walking distance." The home is just outside the south-east city wall.

Anyhow, she's located at
Calle Chipilapa No. 30
La Antigua, Guatemala

You can reach her-
by email: casajuanita@yahoo.com
or phone: 001 (502) 7832-1874

Although her english is fairly limited, her grandaughter (Rita) reads and answers the emails. Rita promises that she (or any of her friends) can respond to emails in any language.

Here are some pictures of the house:
bedroom
kitchen

Trouble Bridge Over Waters

2007-04-29T06:21:00.000-07:00

So you want to go to Panama, eh? Great. I highly recommend it - soon - because I don´t see how this walking bridge (you´ll pay $5 to have the honor to cross it) can last much longer. It´s an old railroad bridge and it´s definitely seen better days (and I can assure you the railroad is long gone).

In the mean time, why put a good bridge to waste? Add a few pieces of wood in the right places and this used-up old railroad bridge is good-as-new and ready for use by your average, run-of-the-mill 18-wheeler!

Yup, as they say- necessity is the father of invention (or at least improvization).

This can´t be a good idea...

Hostel

2007-04-28T21:22:00.000-07:00

I´ve arrived in San Jose. I´m here for the night before catching another bus to Tamarindo. Including the boat, the taxis, the bus, and the short walk accross town, it´was nearly 8 hours from Panama to my new ¨home¨ for the night. Tomorrow I have another 5+ hours getting to Tamarindo. I thought about doing it all tomorrow, but wise (I think) opted out.

I´m staying at my first ¨real¨ hostel of this trip. In Puerto Viejo and Bocas del Torro, I found other cheap sleeping arrangements.

Anyhow- random people, free internet, pancake breakfast, styling decor, books, games, laundry service, etc... All the true world traveler could want. Now, when I decide I want to sleep - I might feel otherwise (since I dont´t know if-when the ¨quiet¨ starts).

Anyhow, nice little place to call home for $9. I wish I wasn´t packing so much stuff and that I could take a few weeks to Hostel Hop and see stuff. But, alas - that´s not what this trip is about. Remember - I´m here to study Spanish.

Still... I think I need to start planning a Hostelling Adventure. It was super fun in 1999 in Scandanavia and with Ryan through other parts of Europe.

3 Hour Tour

2007-04-28T21:14:00.000-07:00

Remember that tour gone bad (interupted by the rain)? Well, one of my fellow ship mates took it upon herself to arrange a follow-up completion of said adventure (for no additional cost).

Yup, I was walking down the street and they started calling out to me from a restaurant patio. Normally, I try to make it a habit to ignore people yelling at me in foreign countries, but I made an exception this time. Good thing too. That was later in the afternoon after I had cleaned up and enjoyed the wonders of the Bocas Internet Cafe. They told me we had another boat scheduled for anyone from the original 3 hour tour who wanted to do the other half.

Cha Ching!

So, this morning, before leaving Bocas - I was out on the water (and in the water) again. The snorkeling wasn´t as good today, if you´re into colorful coral. However, the fish were amazing. We were snorkelling in 5 feet of coral and plants and there were tons of fish in a variety of sizes and colors. Fun times.

Then, we went to Red Frog beach - appropriately named for the poisonous red frogs. Don´t worry, they hide in the trees and avoid the actual beach. The water was great. The sun was hidden (actually a good thing, I´m not a sun worshipper - so I enjoyed th

Anyhow, Bocas ended up being a stellar weekend trip to start off my oh-too-short stay in Costa Rica. I just realized that since I´m flying home on a saturday, and because this weekend is pretty well gone... I only have 2 free weekends in Costa Rica (when I can get ¨out¨ and see stuff). I´d better make it good!

And the company was great. Although Puerto Viejo didn´t really test my Spanish, the rest of the weekend did. I was able to have quite a few effective and worthwhile conversations with my fellow shiopmates (especially since we did 2 different 3 hour tours as a group - and I´m the only one who speaks English as a native language).

Dinner

2007-04-28T21:06:00.000-07:00

Tom, Tom, and Vicki recommended a restaurant in town. Of course, now you´re wondering who Tom, Tom, and Vicki are.

Answer- They are 3 students from England on a bit of a service trek, walkabout sort of thingy. In fact, they were part of a group of 100+ 20-somethings taking 3 months to work with people in poorer parts of Costa Rica, and pirmarily Nicaragua. Sounds like a cool way to spend the year after high school. They say it´s pretty common in England to take a ¨break¨ before beginning university.

Anyhow, dinner. So I went to their recommended eatery and found that I´m having a hard time adjusting to the abundance of food being thrown around here. In Guatemala, I usually ate ¨just enough¨ and was never stuffed. Not the case in Panama - or Costa Rica. Now, granted this might have something to do with my house mom, but also the restaurants I went to in Guatemala didn´t give me that overwhelmingly bloated feeling. I´m not a fan.

So, if you like that feeling and want a good meal... Check out Buena Vista, next to the police station. Cool atmosphere, and the bartenders pretty cool (even if he doesn´t understand why I ordered my drink sin alcohol).

Bocas del Torro

2007-04-27T15:39:00.000-07:00

If anyone asks, I'm a few miles away from home... and loving it. I wish I had more time to visit more of Panama, but alas this will have to do. Panama City sounds incredible, but I didn't really plan time enough time for more than Costa Rica and Guatemala (and I'm pushing it just to fit this in)... So I guess that means I'll be coming back (anyone surprised?).

Today, I got up (after a lengthy night's sleep to make up for two early morning wake-up calls and a walk through San Jose) and went on a dolphin, snorkel, lunch, beach, snorkel boat trip.

It turned into a dolphin, snorkel, lunch trip (cut the final visit to a beach and an additional dive) when the rain started. Ooops. Someone forgot to tell me it was rainy season. Doh! Oh well, in the end it all turned out well enough. I'll have blenty of beach time in Tamarindo and at least we got one dive in. The snorkeling was magnificent. The coral was about 5 feet down. i.e. It was right there. And the fish were great. I can't really tell you the specifics, since my dive knowledge amounts to knowing

how to clean and use the gear
describing fish and coral using the primary and secondary colors
knowing not to stand the coral (unlike the guy in our group)

Yes, I am a white, hairy beast. But I got to see really cool corral and fishes, so I'm ok with it. I guess I just need someone to punch me in the eye, so that I can be red, white and blue... and truely represent my country.

These guys are chopping their way through the water. Slow progress. We soon followed with 250 CC of motor pushing us. Little trouble for us. It´s a 40 minute ride through canals to get to Bocas. That part is perhaps the most memorable. It´s amazing.

Taxis

2007-04-27T15:31:00.000-07:00

In San Jose, I was offered the glorious price of $18 for a taxi from the airport to downtown. I was a bit putoff by the whole thing, but I must admit that the same rate is what I'd likely pay in Los Angeles for a taxi from the airport to my apartment. Still, that doesn't make it right. I was just frustrated that no one was more helpful in finding the cheaper solution (the $0.60 bus).

Anyhow, lest anyone acuse me of being less than helpful...

In Los Angeles, there is a cheap option for getting to/from the airport. It is also called a bus (we even spell it the same in English as in Spanish). You can get to just about anywhere in the city for a mere $0.75 (maybe $1 if you're picky).

Visit MTA.net for deatils and schedules. And next time you want a ride home from the airport, remember there is an option that doesn't cost your friend 2 hours and won't cost you $18 either.

Let me just say, for the record, that I don't like being "helped" by these "helpers." A guy tried to "help" me get arrange my boat to Bocas and get a $20 cab at the Panamanian border. Eventually, I ditched him (not an easy feat) and got my own cab for a lot less. Thanks - no help needed (at least not the help you're offering).

I remembr Jen Volz being frustrated by he culture and how things worked in China. She had traveled a lot in Central America (whereas I had lots of experience in Asia). I have a feeling that I'm experiencing the exact opposite of what she was going through. I'm so tired of people telling me they're helping me, when they're really out to make a fast buck. I'm willing to pay reasonable rates for reasonable help. I'm not willing to pay an unreasonable rates for no help at all.

Puerto Viejo

2007-04-27T15:16:00.000-07:00

OK... OK... I said I was going to Costa Rica, and my first thought after getting off the plane was, "get out of the country." Not really, but almost. Several people told me I had to visit Boca del Toro, Panama. And I was also told that San Jose wasn't anything "special." So, I'm going to Bocas del Toro. I do what my friends tell me (most of my friends).

En route, I stopped here... Why? It just seemed like a good idea (given that I had to stop somewhere). I decided I'd get up to watch the sunrise over the ocean. So, two days in a row, I was up at 4:30. Bad choice... Turns out all night I was afraid I was going to oversleep, so I couldn't sleep very well, and I had really weird dreams (including people breaking into my room, AND Sarah Kent asking if she could join us on the hike).

Even so, this is a beautiful stopping point (even if the sunrise was nothing special.

Goodbye Guatemala

2007-04-27T14:44:00.000-07:00

I mentioned hitting some final spots in Antigua. I kinda wish I'd found this place a little earlier. I love parks, fountains, and museums. And they had it all. I definitely could have done some homework sitting in the courtyard. Maybe it would have been too distracting, but after a while my bed was a little less than comfortable. Anyhow, I had a "list" of places to see, and I actually managed to get to all but (I think) 2 of them. I guess that means I have to go back.

Anyhow, I then wandered off to the market to buy a gift for my house "mom." I also wish I'd wandered these paths sooner. I wasn't in the "right" mood to bargain (since I was in a hurry to run all my errands), but I could have really gotten into the whole shopping in the marcado thing. I have no idea how this woman thinks she's going to sell all these vegetables before they go bad. But, hey - she made an easy buck off me for letting me shoot several photos. I guess that makes up for the fact that there are 20 other women selling equal piles of goods in the same corner of the market.

PS I'm bummed that I forgot to get a picture with Juanita, her dauhgter (Rita), or her 3 grand-daughters (Rita, Anna Lucia, and Rita). She did give me a buisiness card and asked that I recommend her to all my friends. So, no better way than here - on the internet for all to see. "Casa Juanita" as she called it, is a fine Bed and Breakfast in Antigua and she's super nice and the place is clean and the conversation (once you can speak Spanish) is great. And although she's "scared" to speak english, she's a practical walking dictionary and she knows lots of words. Super sweet - and for a mere $10 a day (room and board and conversation).

And finally... This is Carlos, but second and last teacher in Guatemala. He pushed me, and it was good to solidify lots of what Fredy and I had studied and work on a few new forms as well.

To Erik Isakson

2007-04-27T14:30:00.000-07:00

Pardon this interuption in your regularly scheduled program.

It seems that my recent emails to Erik aren´t going through. Erik has been nice enough to offer me my first ¨job¨ for my first week ¨back.¨ Unfortunately, the internet hates me and my emails are being eaten by the electronic Gods.

So Erik, here´s a number to call...

1229 Santa Monica Blvd
Santa Monica, CA 90404
310-393-9881

It´s the Subaru Dealer/Service-Center in Santa Monica. Hopefully if you explain things to them, they can talk you through what will be necessary.

Oh, and turn off your smap filter. I am not spam!

Scam Jose...

2007-04-25T20:40:00.000-07:00

I don't like the marketing techniques of taxi drivers in Central America. There, I said it.

Two weeks ago when I went to Flores to see Tikal, Eve and I were accosted by a mass of madmen (taxi drivers) wanting to drive us anywhere. The same thing happened this morning in San Jose, Costa Rica at the international airport. [If anyone from the tourism beaurau is reading this: I was so turned off I wanted to get back on my plane and go anywhere else.] Luckily, I fended them off with greater ease this time (probably because it was 10 am and not 6 am). They were all generous enough to offer me a ride to the Carribe bus terminal (to catch my bus toward panama) for the great price of $18.

Wow, what a deal?! Not.

Oh sure, if you're multiple people, with lots of bags, and you have no adventure in you, then maybe... But, let me let you in on a secret: there's a bus stop right outside the airport and for $0.60 (yes, 60 cents) you can get a bus to the city. $18 is not a good price. A lesser me might have accidentally taken one of them up on the offer, but this time - I won. I denied their advances, found the bus and got to the bus terminal. And I'm $17 richer than the average man.

Thanks.

Pot, Weed, Grass, and a Good Smoke

2007-04-25T20:30:00.000-07:00

OK, so I've started my travels in Costa Rica (I got here this morning after a very early wake up call to catch a shuttle to Guatemala City and my 8:20 flight). My inital destination is actually Bocas del Toro, Panama (for the geographically challenged, that's actually south east of Costa Rica - and a different country alltogether). Anyhow, I'm not there yet, but I'm spending a day in Puerto Viajo. And well, it's hard not to wander through wafts (is that a word) of the worlds favorite weed (asside from tobacco) being smoked here and there.

Also, I feel like I've entered the Bob Marley capitol of the world (Erik, eat your heart out). It turns out that (until recently) this side of Costa Rica was mostly populated by people who came many years ago from various Carribean countries to work for the old fruit companies.

So, the food, the music, the language, the people... it's all different. There is some Spanish here, but there's plento of some other language(s) as well. English is now my default language, but I go in and out of Spanish as well.

So this is the internet, eh?

2007-04-25T20:23:00.000-07:00

Oh my gosh, so THIS is why people like the internet so much! I just signed onto a computer here in Costa Rica (yes, I've relocated), and wow... Now we're talking. This is a Pentium 4 with a 17 inch montior, and an optical mouse. Let's just call it heaven.

The connection speed is only slightly faster than Antigua, but the computer's speed makes a huge difference. Anyhow, I'm only telling you this because - well - it's part of the experience and people have asked how the comptuers are here.

In Guatemala, Skype was really big and all the Internet Cafe's were set up for people to talk over the internet. Strangely, here in Costa Rica... although the computers are much better, I don't see a headset connected to any of them. Maybe international calls are cheaper who. Who knows.

Cool Places in Antigua

2007-04-25T20:15:00.000-07:00

I left Antigua in a hurry, or rather I was hurriedly preparing when the time came that I had to leave.

I manage to hit a few final ruins and sites in my final days and I'm so glad I did. I did stumbled onto a few gems that I'd missed along the way. Oh sure San Fransisco still is my favorite ruin in the city, but I found a few other places I would have liked to wander more often during my stay.

Sorry no pictures, but if we're ever in Antigua together, I'm taking you to the public library near McDonalds.* It (to me) finally put all the other ruins of the city in perpective. Now I have an image of what the old monastaries, convents, and churches looked like in their hey-days.

* Yes there is a McDonalds in Antigua - I'm proud to say I did NOT eat there, though I did visit it twice to look around. It may be the nicest McDonalds in the world.

For the Kids

2007-04-25T20:09:00.000-07:00

When I left the U.S., I was carrying various goodies to donate to the children of Guatemala. The stuff was sitting in my room this whole time, and I finally took it all in to the school and passed it off for them to distribute. Back when I got here, I also thought I'd get involved in some sort of service opportunity (for instance, Safe Passage). But, I didn't.

In the beginning, I was focused on getting enough Spanish so as not to be a hinderment to whomever I tried to help. In the end, I was distracted by the sites, sounds, and people in Antigua. No regrets, but it meant to official service time.

Some people plan ahead - not me

2007-04-25T20:06:00.000-07:00

I have my house on my back. It´s official, I hate moving. Tuesday morning I ran around Antigua doing "last minute" errands. Only last minute, because I'm that kind of person. I was buy a gift for my house-mom and shipping some stuff home to myself (Kevin, expect a package). I ended up missing lunch and then cutting my afternoon class short (on both ends).

Anyhow, mail is expensive... And I forgot to buy someone a gift. If you don't get a gift from me, it's because I didn't buy it for you yesterday. Blame Antigua and my busy schedule.

God, Religion, Church, Fellowship, Theology...

2007-04-22T18:14:00.000-07:00

I don't think I was expecting religion to be such a hot topic down here, but it's been very good for me. The day after I did Mormonism 101 at Rikki's Bar, I recounted the whole conversation to my teacher (well, ok - part of the conversation - the Spanish is somewhat limited). At that time I was learning the past tense, so it was perfect practice - you know: since history is all past tense. For example:

Christ started a church. After he died, it was led by the apostles or prophets. Eventually, they died and the church - without Priesthood leadership - split into various and confusing options. Later, Joseph Smith didn't know which church to join. He prayed about his confusion and saw God and Christ.

Point is, it's all past tense, so it's great practice, but more than that - it spurred an interesting discussion about the purpose of the church in political and social life here in Guatemala.

Anyhow, in addition to telling people about my beliefs and my church, I've also had a chance to learn about

great books by great thologians (how do you spell that)
diverse ideas about the nature of God
early Catholic church history in Central America
feeling, receiving, and sending energy
the path a man takes to become a monk
and more

It has been good for me to step outside my (relatively speaking) sterile religious community into this environment. It pushes me to think about what I believe and why others believe what they believe about Life, the Universe and Everything.

I've been reading (as previsouly mentioned) Mere Christianity, but after a great discussion with Austin I now have an extended reading list to keep me busy for the next few years. It's amazing (but not surprising) the amount of literature that has been written about Christianity. What does surprise me is how Austin can rattle off the titles and authors of 20+ books "worth reading" (including my favorite title - though possibly not the most profound from his list: The Gospel According to The Simpsons). I guess he got his money's worth from his Masters in Theology.

I'm also reading the Life of Pi (finally) which has little if anything to do with the number pi. It is, however, an interesting look at one man's journey to find/experience God. It seems that many of the people that "up and move to Antigua for a season" have a bit of (as one friend put it) hippie in them. But, more than that - there's a curious inquisitiveness about many of the people I've met. There's also a gratifying amount of openness to new and different ideas. At home (in "the states" or in LA) religion seems to be pretty low on the collective radar of the population - and deep discussions on these matters are few and far between. Maybe I'm wrong, but that's how it seemed. Granted, for the last year - I've been working in a small office with someone with the same religious backgrowd, so there was little exloration there. And in other jobs, there's really isn't time to stop and chat about God and theology for 2 hours.

Here, there's plenty of time for all that (though some times are better than others). Discussions with Eve, Stephen, Austin, Lucie, and many others have helped re-awaked thought on important subjects I've either taken for granted or not bothered to consider with any seriousness. It has also helped remind me that there are certain things in life that seem crystal-clear, which may not be as cut-and-dry for others. I love these discussion. 10 Years ago, while working at Walt Disney World, I found myself in similar situations and it was equally eye opening and mind expanding.

The Long Goodbye

2007-04-22T17:48:00.000-07:00

Well, it's that time again - goodbye time. But then again, this is pretty much goodbye week. Sara, Elise and I are all leaving and others are following soon behind. We got together and did the traditional "trade emails" and talk for hours thing, while hopping from our favorite hang-out spot (Cafe Sky) onto a place with grate crepes. Yes, hard to believe - but right here in Antigua there's a frenchman with a crepe shop - and he knows what he's doing!

It's was Sara's big goodbye, but then again - she keeps coming back to Antigua, so there will probably be ANOTHER goodbye for Sara in a few weeks. Or maybe not, but you just never know.

Steven broght his guitar and it got passed around as we led each other through moving reditions of various Johnny Cash, John Denver, Cranberries, and other fine acoustic hits (you know how it is where there's a guitar). I ate way too much. By the way, it helps to have more than 2 hours between lunch and dinner - just in case you're wondering.

For those who were there and want to relive some of the "magic" here's a video.

Oh sure, I wish I had video of Austin doing Old Home Place, but alas that was not meant to be. This is what happens when you try to video Austin.

Goodbye all!

But not forever, because we're all getting together again in Boone - right?!

Procrastination

2007-04-22T15:17:00.000-07:00

As promised, I waited until my last week to visit some of Antigua´s greatest ruins. (Sorry - no pictures today.) I hit three separate churches-convents Saturday morning. I really am astounded by the amount of effort and work that went into these various buildings (and all in the 1700s). And to top it off, how frustrating that the city was hit by two major earthquakes during the century... enough to convince them to uproot and move the captial (thank goodness).

Anyhow, I ended up wandering the walls of these old churches and convents alone (my main city walking partner has moved on) and some other friends upted for a local pool. Not that I don´t like sun, pools, friends and fun... but time is short here and I´ve things to do. I fly out Wednesday.

As it was, last night I was exhausted. I think I went to bed at 7.30... I meant to get up to meet some friends, but slept through my alarm and ended up pretty much sleeping until 7 am. Maybe I´ve got a little bit of the ¨gringo disease.¨ Who knows?